Clos des Goisses 1951 – 1998

xI was just weeks away from delivering a Christie’s Champagne Masterclass to a sell-out audience. The problem was, I’d be so busy with book-writing deadlines that nothing was in place and no theme had been decided. Lucy Marshall, the marketing manager at Christie’s Education, was diplomatically fending off enquiries from ticketholders who, not unreasonably, wanted to knowwhat they would be getting for their money.

There is a plotof land in Champagne so blessed inlocation and aspect that it can achieve agood level of natural ripeness year in andyear out: Clos des Goisses. Then Iremembered Charles Philipponnat beingunable to supply some old vintages for adinner because he had so few left,” butsaying that he might change his mind for a”special” tasting. So I fired off an e-mail tosee if my Christie’s Champagne Masterclasswas “special” enough.

After a flurry of e-mails, the deal wasdone, and with it the sigh of relief fromChristie’s Education was almost audible.

Soon, a line-up of 13 vintages of Clos des Goisses stretching back 56 years was in place. This was a remarkable opportunity to taste these wines, and The World of Fine Wine magazine commissioned me to write the story of Clos des Goisses and of course, the tasting. With their permission wine-pages visitors may now download the .pdf version of the entire article.

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The World of Fine Wine magazine is devoted to wine and all thing vinous. Contributors include Jancis Robinson, Michael Broadbent and Michel Bettane amongst many others, under the editorial leadership of Hugh Johnson, Andrew Jefford and Neil Beckett.