05th December 2016 – wine press roundup

the Observer – David Williams

Gál Tibor Egri Bikavér Titi, Hungary 2015 (£8.99, Lidl)
peppery strawberry and cherry fruitiness
Kopfensteiner Blaufränkisch Eisenberg, Austria 2014 (£12.75, Oddbins)
salt-and-pepper-seasoned raspberry and blackberry-scented example
Cicero Alte Reben Pinot Noir, Graubünden, Switzerland 2012 (£26.40, Alpine Wines)
gossamer-textured, alluringly perfumed

the Guardian – Fiona Beckett

Famille Perrin Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2014 (£8.99 The Co-op)
bold, generous and well-priced; handsomely bottled
Château Cesseras Cuvée Olric Minervois 2013 (£9 Booths; 14% abv)
joyous exuberance
Aldi Exquisite Collection 2014 Plan de Dieu (£5.79; 14% abv)
from the Côtes du Rhône, could easily be twice the price
Aldi Estevez Pinot Noir 2015 (13.5% abv)
It’s a touch sweet, maybe, but at £4.79, who’s complaining?
Castillo de Viñas 2014 (13% abv £8.75, Wine Society)
fruity
Tesco Finest Rioja Reserva 2011 (£8)
made by the reliable Baron de Ley in a more traditional style
Marks & Spencer Château Tour Guillotin 2015 (13.5% abv £15 magnum)
Gal Tibor Ti Ti (£8.99 Lidl; 14% abv)
edgy, exciting, fruit-brimmed, from Hungary

the Scotsman – Rose Murray-Brown

Nelson, New Zealand: WINGSPAN PINOT NOIR 2013 (£14.99 Raeburn Fine Wines)
Attractive forest fruit aromas, complex palate, nutty, savoury
Chile: VINA LEYDA LOT 21 PINOT NOIR 2013 (£18 The Wine Society)
vibrant acidity, smooth structure with great fruit concentration
Marlborough, New Zealand: TINPOT HUT PINOT NOIR 2014 (£14.99 Provender Brown; Exel Wines; Aitken Wine; Valhalla’s Goat)
Soft silky smooth textured toasty cherry-fruited Pinot Noir
Central Otago, NZ: WILD EARTH PINOT NOIR 2011 (£21.50 Valhalla’s Goat; Aitken Wines)
Wonderfully plummy with a bright vivid character, lovely smooth and sweet
Germany: UNTERTURKHEIMER GIPS SPATBURGUNDER 2015 Aldinger (£19.50 Wine Society)
Delicate and light but beautifully balanced with succulent fruits
France: SANTENAY LES CHARMES 2013 Domaine Belland (£22.50 Majestic)
raspberry fruit aromas, voluptuously smooth structure
Australia: GIANT STEPS SEXTON VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015 (£22.99 Fine Wine Co)
Enchanting aroma, a lovely zestiness; unusual bitter cherry undertones
France: BOURGOGNE ROUGE MAISON DIEU 2014 Domaine de Bellene (£16.50 Berry Bros)
Like a mini-Pommard with its spicy depth of fruit and fullness of flavour
Limoux, S France: ESPRIT DE BEGUDE PINOT NOIR 2013 (£15.99 Majestic)
Delightful, light in weight, refreshing in acidity, very poised
Kent, England: HUSH HEATH PINOT NOIR 2015 (£18.50 Fine Wine Co)
delicate raspberry fruits and a touch of vanilla
Martinborough, New Zealand: TE TERA PINOT NOIR 2014 (£14.99 Majestic)
Elegant Pinot Noir has delicious cherry fruits, savoury undertones
Bulgaria: EDUARDO MIROGLIO PINOT NOIR 2008 (£14.95 Swig)
Very mature farmyard aromas, lovely perfumed fruits; graceful and fascinating

the Telegraph – Susy Atkins

Blandy’s 10 Year Old Sercial Madeira, Waitrose, £19.49 for 50cl
dry and tangy; full of the perky, fresh flavours of fig, peach and apple
Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Malvasia Madeira, Majestic, £16.99 for 50cl
Darker, with sweeter, richer nuances of walnuts, espresso and black molasses
Broadbent 5 Year Old Reserve Madeira, Berry Bros & Rudd, £37.75 for 75cl
Cinder toffee, dried citrus peel, roasted nuts and burnt marmalade

the Independent – Terry Kirby

Barbardillo Manzanilla Extra Dry. £8.95 hawkshead; cambridgewine
distinguished by its pronounced yeasty, salty tang
Tio Pepe Fino Dos Palmas. £16.50 Wine Society; £16.99 laithwaites
Very dry and savoury, this can be drunk with all kinds of tapas
Morrisons Dry Oloroso. £6 (37.7cl) Morrisons
This is remarkable value for such complexity