14th December 2015 – weekly press roundup

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the Observer – David Williams

Quinta do Noval Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Port 2009 (£24, Oddbins)

deep dark fruit, bitter chocolate and firm but velvety texture

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Dry Amontillado (£9.99, Waitrose)

gorgeously rich and tangy example of the amontillado style

Parce Freres Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturel 1998 (£13.50, The Wine Society)

particularly luscious example, the flavours of rich Christmas cake

Leduc Piedimonte Ice Cider, Canada 2008/10 (from £25.75, Vinoteca; bottleapostle)

unctuous but racy nectar has a tang of citrus; gorgeously pure sweet apple

the Independent – Terry Kirby

Fino Una Palma. £12.49, cheers; £12.95, thewinesociety

Relish the fresh, bone-dry, salty, nutty flavours

Litmus White Pinot 2011. £22, marksandspencer

Aromas of red berries and flowers, with rich, mouth-filling flavours

Don Melchor 2011. £39.95 (normally £49.95), winedirect

Massively concentrated, complex and powerful yet still fruity and elegant

the Guardian – Fiona Beckett

Domaine Quenard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne Savoie. £13.90 Berry Bros

refreshingly floral; perfect antidote to rich meals

Domaine des Terres Falmet Cinsault 2013. £9.25 Berry Bros

a cracking Languedoc red; bright, breezy

Terre de Mes Ancetres, Cite de Carcassonne 2014. £5.95 Wine Society

classic

Maison Roche de Bellene Chardonnay Cuvee Speciale 2013. £10.95 Wine Society

Affordable posh white burgundy

Domaine Serrigny Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Dominode 2012. £26 Wine Society

sexily silky

Laithwaite’s Seleccion Especial Numerada 8 Rioja 2009. Down to £8.99

No, it’s not worth £15.99, but for nine quid it’s a damned good buy

the Telegraph – Victoria Moore

Coates & Seely Rosé Brut NV Hampshire (12%, Lea & Sandeman, £29.95)

elegant and understated wine that has the faintest taste of wild strawberries

Hambledon Première Cuvée NV Hampshire (12%, Berry Bros & Rudd, £42)

very assured wine, with a firm acidic spine, but also complexity and detail

Wiston Estate Cuvée Brut 2010 West Sussex (12%, Corney & Barrow, £32.95)

reverberating, brain-rinsing acidity. A bit too much for my taste

Gusbourne Estate Brut Reserve 2010 Kent (12%, Oddbins, £30)

Leads with chardonnay, which gives sparkling wine a creamy, broad appeal

Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Blancs 2009 Kent (12%, Berry Bros & Rudd, £34.9)

beautiful wine with mellow depth and a creamy, toasty taste

Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV Hampshire (12%, Berry Bros & Rudd, £29.95)

still focused and piercing, if a little less compex. Very good

Henners Brut 2010 East Sussex (12%, Winetrust100.co.uk, £28)

A tight, toasty blanc de noirs; deserves to be better known

the Telegraph – Susy Atkins

Taylor’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port (Waitrose, £22)

spiced oranges, a hint of mocha mid-palate and hazelnuts

Quinta do Noval 20 Year Old Tawny Port (The Drink Shop, £34.69 on offer)

candied orange peel, caramel popcorn, plain chocolate

Maynard’s 40 Year Old Tawny Port (Aldi, £29.99)

rich, sumptuous layers of sultanas, demerara sugar, coffee, and brazil nuts

the Scotsman – Rose Murray-Brown

MACON VILLAGES 2014 Domaine Mallory et Benjamin Talmard (£8.75 Wine Society)

Brilliant value for unoaked Chardonnay. Sleek, citric, elegant, pure fruits

STEPP RIESLING ‘S’ 2014 (£10 at Marks & Spencer)

Zesty and vibrant with lime, mandarin and grapefruit flavours

THE EXQUISITE COLLECTION CLARE VALLEY RIESLING 2014 (£6.99 Aldi)

Crisp zingy limey, dry Riesling aperitif

LE CHAMP DES ETOILES CHARDONNAY 2014 (£8.99 Laithwaites)

Vibrant, creamy, rounded with a touch of oak from ageing in old barrels

DESIERTO 25 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014 (£11.95 Berry Bros )

Very minerally, dry Sauvignon Blanc, not an overblown New World wine

ST VERAN CLOS VESSATS 2014 Domaine Guerrin (£12.50 Oddbins)

Creamy rounded Chardonnay with nutty gentle oak notes

CLOS FLORIDENE 2012 (£17.99 Co-op)

Beautifully made white Graves; citric fruits, grapefruit and lime

CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC MONT-REDON 2014 Abeille-Fabre (£17 Wine Society)

Rich ripe fruit balanced with natural acidity to refresh the palate

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU 2012 (£20 Harvey Nichols)

Vibrant minerality, fresh acidity with a lovely honeyed toasty undertone

GREYWACKE ‘WILD’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013 (£24 Villeneuve, Woodwinters)

Beautifully made, textured, complex, savoury, spice

AVANCIA GODELLO 2012 (£24.50 Ultracomida)

Citric, curranty and smoky, delicious full-bodied oaked white

POUILLY FUISSE 2013 L A Ferret (£24.99 Vino; Aitken Wines; Roberson)

Cleverly combines a fresh minerality with nutty rich leesy roundness

the Independent – Anthony Rose

2013 Pinot Noir Limited Edition, Leyda Valley, Cimarosa. £6.99, Lidl

touch of toasty oak, balanced by Pacific breezy freshness

2014 Taste The Difference Chablis Premier Cru Brocard. £14.50 Sainsbury’s

bone-dry white burgundy shot through with citrus

2013 Font de Michelle Châteauneuf-du-Pape. £25.99, Waitrose

Scented with plums and spice, this is a rich southern Rhône blend

the Scotsman – Brian Elliott

1998 Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port (£23.99 Waitrose)

attractively smooth, textured black cherry and ripe bramble fruit

Fino Una Palma (£12.95 for a 50cl bottle at The Wine Society)

smooth, nutty style mellowed by an edge of orange-centred sweetness

Gonzalez Byass Noe Pedro Ximenez Viejo VORS Sherry (£17.99 Majestic)

dense, almost black, but silky, sherry with date, fig and muscovado sugar

Harveys Very Old Palo Cortado (£22.59 for 50cl at Waitrose)

light, tangy acidity yet buttery texture and nutty orange touches

Blandy’s 10 Year Old Bual Madeira (£14 TB Watson, Dumfries)

rich dried and candied fruit flavours, cinnamon and balancing marmalade