(2016) Lebanon once again finds itself next door to terrible conflict in Syria, but the winemakers of this beautiful country are pretty unshakable now, and business carries on in face of adversity. I've recently reviewed 30 rosé wines in my annual round-up, but there are so many around that I will be adding a supplement with another dozen soon. One of them will be this unusual blend of Tempranillo and Rhône varieties from Lebanon's Domaine des Tourelles, a fruity but savoury interpretation, deeper in colour than the ubiquitous Provence examples, but with a good food-friendly depth. Watch the video for more detail and food-matching ideas.
(2016) Carmenere is regarded by many as Chile's 'signature grape', but there are moves afoot to rehabilitate one of the most common grapes of the country, País, which has traditionally been used only for cheap wines for local consumption. Torres have vinified this using the carbonic maceration technique common in Beaujolais, to give a wine that bursts with sweet black cherries on the nose, before a fresh and medium weight palate with a soft tannin structure, plenty of black fruit and a well-balanced finish. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas. Stocks are moving from the 2013 to 2014 vintage at time of writing.
(2016) Solid and sweet cassis and black plum, licked with chocolate and smoky spice, but seriously sweet and ripe fruit, with a richness and gloss, though the chocolate smoothness of the tannins makes it very svelte and creamy. Good structure in a classic style, and very well done. 2013 not in UK at time of writing, so price quoted is for 2012.
(2016) There’s leafiness here too, a touch of something pungent to the fruit, maybe of passion fruit. Balanced and dry on the palate, with citrus and more of that pungent, lightly cabbage quality of good white Burgundy but not fantastically 'Chablis' in style.
(2015) Gorgeous nose, from the same terroir as the Grand Vin, this shows lovely Botrytis notes with barley sugar richness. The palate has roundness and richness too, but it is the orangey, vibrant finish that sets this apart, a touch of bitterness, of kumquat, to throw that sweetness into wonderful relief. Delicious, long and tangy. Price is for a half bottle.
(2015) The striking feature of Ferghettina's Milledi cuvée (there's a cheaper straight 'Brut' too) is its bottle. Researched and designed by winemaker Matteo Gatti, its beauty is more than skin deep: Gatti claims the square sides allow two and a half times greater lees contact as the wine lays in the cellars compared to traditional bottles. It is a Blanc de Blancs made from 100% Chardonnay, aged 36 months on the lees with a dosage of 7g/l and 12.5% alcohol. Fresh, herby and lightly toasty, it is open and lightly oxidative in style, lovely fruit sweetness coming through with some honey on the palate, a gentle mousse and very good length and clarity.
(2014) Drappier also produce a zero added sulphur version of this wine, but this is the 'very low sulphur' version, though both have zero residual sugar. Made from 100% first pressings of Pinot Noir, it has a pale gold colour and is very effervescent, minuscule bubbles erupting across the glass. The apple and citrus nose begins to reveal some nuttiness and toast. There's a lovely suggestion of burgeoning richness here. On the palate there is the hint of austerity from the zéro dosage, but there is nothing difficult about this: its fruit and rich toast roundness fill the mouth, with lovely clarity and precision in the finish. One of my favourites in the line up.
(2012) This is a traditional method sparkling wine made from Chardonnay, Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc, aged for a minimum of 24 months in bottle. Winemaker Melanie Pfister worked vintages at Craggy Range, Zind Humbrecht and Meo Camuzet in Burgundy before taking over the family domaine. The nose is attractive, clean and appetising with apple and a touch of custard, and just a suggestion of bready richness. The mousse is crisp and rolls across the tongue, as more orchard fruit flavours follow onto the palate. This is dry, but it has some weight and some nutty richness too, making for a particularly stylish fizz with both aperitif and fish/seafood-matching credentials.