December 2015’s Wines of the Month

2015-12-wotm

Under Twelve Pounds

(2015) Gorgeous nose, from the same terroir as the Grand Vin, this shows lovely Botrytis notes with barley sugar richness. The palate has roundness and richness too, but it is the orangey, vibrant finish that sets this apart, a touch of bitterness, of kumquat, to throw that sweetness into wonderful relief. Delicious, long and tangy. Price is for a half bottle.

Under Twenty Pounds

(2015) At a recent tasting I really enjoyed Domaine Wachau's cheaper Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2013, but this from the top 'Smaragd' level of alcohol and ripeness was much more intense, limey and I found it very Riesling-like in a way. It displayed more ripeness quite obviously, though it was arguably less vivacious and herbaceous than the Federspiel, but the palate confirmed that serious intensity with massive concentration of flavour, substance and a long, mineral-taut finish.

Sky’s the Limit

(2015) From the moment this wine is uncorked the bouquet is heavenly, wafting from the glass with a melange of exotic incense spices, Sandalwood and jasmine, then sweet damp earth, graphite and finally a bold and glossy pool of black cherry and cassis. It is, in short, sensational. On the palate there is absolutely no disappointment. Graceful and elegant, it is at the same time just crammed with essence of black fruits, the tartness and the sweetness of biting through a ripe plum into the sweet flesh, a background of earth, gravel and minerals, and yet sweet woodsmoke and tobacco swirl through it too. Light at only 12.5% alcohol, yet substantial, it is almost gravity defying in its lift and perfect balance into a long, beautifully focused finish. One of my great Bordeaux experiences.

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