(2017) The Cave Cooperative at Ribeauville is first class, and this series of organic wines are among their best (there's a terrific Riesling in the same range). However the sometimes unexciting Pinot Blanc can sing in Alsace and it does here, soft floral and lightly waxy aromatics, a touch of almond and vanilla, but then pristine fruit on the palate. It is juicy, lemony, but textured with a rolling apple fruit sliced through by its acidity.
(2017) A typically steely rendition of Riesling from Hugel, and a fabulously accurate one. There is some spice, some beeswax lift, but the thrust is resolutely of precise apple fruit. It's an effortlessly concentrated wine, the dry extract is there to give it some gravitas, but it's all about those apple and tangy sherbet lemon flavours and streaking lemon and grapefruit acidity to make the mouth water. This has the concentration and balance to cellar rather well.
(2017) From a vineyard within the city of Colmar, a fine, salt and lemon-scented wine, a tiny suggestion - but no more than that - of waxiness, but pretty and pristine stuff. In the mouth it is dry and taut, an unflashy style, all cool apple cores and lemon, with a refined, quite long finish.
(2016) Sylvaner may be one of the less lauded varieties of Alsace, but it has a long and noble history in the region and Beyer's example is pale, crisp, fresh and most enjoyable with its zippiness from first mouthful to aftertaste, lemon rind bite and sheer apple acidity. Its a fine sipping dry wine, or all rounder for fish, salads and lighter supper dishes.
(2016) A glorious Riesling this from Trimbach, with a delightful waxy, mineral complexity on the nose, hints of paraffin wax and flowers, ripe orchard fruit beneath. On the palate it is sharp as tack but has its own sense of fat concentration and juiciness, as well as pin-sharp citrus and dry apple acidity. A beautiful example of an Alsace Riesling in a style that's bone-dry, but never austere.
(2015) A delightful if understated Riesling, this has stone-fruit aromas, lemon and gentle wax, peach down and stony minerals. On the palate it has a hint of being off-dry, with a clean, fruity palate, though whilst balanced, it perhaps lacks the last ounce of precision and pinging acidity of the very best examples.
(2014) With a very low 2g/l dosage, this all Chardonnay cuvée spends two years on the lees. Lots of nettle and yeast autolysis, lots of bruised apple fruit, and onto the palate very fine, rolling mousse and ultra-crisp, real pushing acidity with zipping tightwire freshness and just enough crisp apple fruit to add a little sweet edge on the mid-palate.
(2014) Blanc d Blancs, mainly Auxerrois, with 10g/l dosage. Very pale colour, quite sherbetty, with pear and lemon, and a bright appley zing. There feels like a reasonable amount of juicy, fresh pear and apple sweetness on the mid palate, with nice finesse and 'prettiness', fresh and appetising, aperitif style, with the sweetness and acidity nicely balanced.
(2014) Chosen by Olivier Poussier, this comes from 15-year-old vines planted on chalk and limestone, very low yield at 25hl/ha. Bright ruby core, quite a lot of smoke, quite a lot of charry oak notes at first, but also showing some mineral freshness and a touch of cherry fruit. Lovely freshness on the palate, with bone dry character, lots of tannin, but it is very fine and elegant. Served cool, it also shows very good acidity and the dry cherry flavour is delightful. Juicy and beautifully balanced, it is an inherently fresh and racy style, almost rosé-like, but with lovely balance.
(2014) Assembled from the best parcels of several plots with an average vine age of 25 years, the winemaking is very similar to the classic Riesling above. Slightly more depth to the colour perhaps, and a pronounced minerality on the nose, just little hints of beeswax and parrafin over cool apple fruit and delicate floral notes. There is a lovely lime intensity of fruit on the palate, very pure, with that touch of waxiness or smokiness, even a hint of spice, but still with only 12.5% alcohol so light and refreshing in style. Undeniably more complex than the 2012 Riesling cuvée, but both have their charms for sure.