(2016) A very traditional and wonderfully austere style for this Albariño from Agro de Bazán, almost the polar opposite of a more luscious interpretation like that from Lagar de Cervera. The fruit is so tightly framed in the white fruit and citrus spectrum, and a big salty lick of mineral-flecked acidity drives it wonderfully.

(2015) Always a class act, Fefiñanes is a compact winery housed in the ancient granite cloisters of the grand Renaissance palace in the central square of Cambados in northwest Spain. Classy stuff indeed, so much flavour and aroma, so much concentration that flashes across the palate with masses of dry apple punch, lime, and ozone, and texture too. Yes it's expensive, but it is just a superb example.

(2014) Again a very modest 12.5% abv for this Galician wine which pours with the appearance of a little petillance, and a lovely fat lemon rind waxiness on the nose. There are little elements of green herbs and of fresh, nutty apple. The palate has no real spritz, but a wonderfully fresh, mineral and ozone blast of crisp orchard fruits, all driving through to a salt-licked, beautifully mineral finish.