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(2022) Soils for this wine are sandy loam over clay, the vines planted in 1994 and the wine wild-fermented and aged in barriques and larger barrels, 20% new. Eight months on the lees with full malolactic. There's a cool and slightly minty character here again, the overall impression cool and restrained. The fruit has a big, sour lemon and grapefruit attack, both fruit and acid. That drives this wine, subduing any idea of tropicality or sweetness, again salty and pithy in the finish in a lean and aesthetic wine.
(2017) Seems far less reductive in style than the 2012, more of a nicely rolling phenolic character over ripe orchard fruits. There's lots of fat lime fruit, but taut acids too, the zip and freshness of citrus, just a lovely texture, sweet edged and flirting with exotic, but the whole thing kept beautifully taut thanks to the cool, clear acidity.
(2017) Lovely nose of creaminess and almond paste smooth nuttiness. The palate beautifully rounded, with super-sweet fruit that's cool and minty though with hints of topicality, a lovely texture and great balancing acidity that stays juicy like sweet apples.
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