(2013) Only from vineyards that are 30 years old or older. 100% Blaufränkisch, bottled one month ago. Starts in equal portions of barriques and big casks, then into 500 litre barrels with tops removed. Really deep and glossy stuff, the purity of the fruit is so deep and fine, a blue/black intensity, licked with mocha and chocolate, plummy and deep. The palate has that lovely lick of saltiness again, the energy and the edge that is deliciously fresh, but married to the deep fruit and spice, concentrated and layered. Long and finishing on fruit extract and spice, that twist of cherry and plum skin to give a bittersweet quality.

(2013) Another expression of Blaufränkisch from a vineyard 500 meters away, planted only on slate and from a slightly cooler site. Made only in the big 1600 litre barrels. Very fine mineral and graphite nose, a little more ashy and mineral, lovely pepper and spice, but refined and has less fat than the Saybritz. Very linear and dry on the palate too, driven by the cool core of blue/black fruit, something more steely about it, something that reveals itself more slowly. Terrific steel at the core of this, graphite and long and deliciously refined.

(2013) A really hot vintage. The limestone cools overnight and makes slightly more reductive wines. Much more rounded and opulent on the nose, the thicker, plumier dark fruits. On the palate it has such fat, sweet fruit and huge concentration. There is a warmth and solidity to this that Georg thinks in four or five years this will come good, the primary sweet fruit will subside a little then. And I can see the game and the herby quality in there that is just a little overshadowed by the thick plumpness of the fruit at present.

(2013) First bottling was 2011. From limestone soils, but harvested a little later. Made in 500-litre casks of Austrian oak. Big, chocolaty nose, with thick, rich fruit. Some spice and pepper and a little gamy note. But this is about earthy and chocolaty richness and conentration. Savoury, with the briny seashore note and wonderful juiciness. Has plenty of acidity and really intense feeling to the tannins that grip the wine now in that savoury umami character, the intense full and spicy fruit is in there, but this has massive structure and concentration.

(2013) From slate soils. Difference here is whole berries. Much lighter, ashier, earthy and floral notes, lots of cracked black pepper and crisp black and red berries - suggests more lift and energy. The palate has such an intense sweet fruit purity, the intensity and concentration is immense, and the palate has lovely finesse and lively, fine intense concentration. The tannins are very svelte, the acidity juicy in a wine that is arguably a little more straightforward, but makes up for that in its perfect purity.