(2024) From three parcels of vines that are between 50 and 70 years old, this was made with 100% whole bunches in the ferment. Dry, cranberry and briar notes on the nose are classic, a little truffle and forest floor development and a touch vanilla perhaps. In the mouth plenty of freshness but sweet fruit concentration too. Again cranberry, redcurrant, certainly in the tart but juicy red fruit spectrum. Spices and a bolstering touch of deeper oak add to the crunch of the fruit on the finish in a rather stylish way.
(2024) From the village where Nicolas grew up, fermented with native yeasts and age in barrels, 20% of which were new. This ramps up the floral and perfumed ripeness of fruit on the nose, a glimpse of an almost minty intensity before more truffle and sous-bois characters. In the mouth it has richness compared to the Savigny, weight and creaminess. The fruit falls more into the black fruit spectrum, but still with juiciness and a roughening edge of spicy tannin that adds some grip. Balanced and long, this is very good.
(2024) Moving into the Côte de Nuits, this comes from vineyards fully converted to organic farming. The vines were planted in 1952. The rich garnet colour precedes aromas that are firm, spicy and earthy, a touch of vegetal character is perfectly tuned, not dominating the savoury fruit quality. In the mouth it offers plenty of structure with a backbone of tannin and keen acid grip suggesting it will cellar for several years more. Through the mid-palate fruit and texture builds, ripeness and suppleness. A very harmonious finish here, balance is impeccable.
(2024) What a lovely wine this is, with its crushed raspberry fragrance and delicate floral notes, and a background of graphite and sweet, cool earth. From clay and limestone soils with a southeast exposure, vines are 42 years old and after destemming, the wine was fermented in steel and matured in barrel for 12 months, 10% of the barrels were new. It's a plush wine on the palate, aided by its 14% alcohol, but the depth of sweet, ripe, fleshy fruit melting into chocolate is just gorgeous. Quite long too, the silkiiness of the tannins and ripeness of the acidity do not ruffle the picture into quite a long finish. No UK stockists listed at time of review.
(2024) Another lovely Pinot Noir from d'Etroyes, from vines around 50 years old, only around 10% of the oak for ageing being new. Fragrant and elegant despite 14% alcohol, it's all about crushed raspberry and firm-edged cherry fruit on the nose and palate, but there is structure here and enough weight on the palate. Firm tannins, fresh acidity, and the finish is on fruit, delicate spices and crispness.
(2023) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils and 40- to 50-year old vines. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel, 80% as whole clusters, with several weeks maceration. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels (25% new), like the 2019 vintage it has compelling, bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries, raspberry and a hint of undergrowth and liquorice giving a firm aromatic edge. That intensity of fruit carries through to the palate, where I really enjoyed the tension between 'prettiness' of red fruits and the hint of sinew and structure from firm tannins and keen plum-skin acidity. A lovely, robust and yet absolutely elegant wine.
(2023) Micault is a 1.29 hectare plot within the Clos Marey-Monge, on pink sandstone. The wine is certified organic. Eighty percent of the grapes are whole-bunch vinified, then aged in barrel for 15 months, but only 15% new oak. Typical of the domaine's wines, it marries a juicy, unashamed depth of ripe red berry fruit with terroir notes of minerals and light smokiness. On the palate that energy from very delicate oak influence and ripe but refined tannins and acids gives beautiful mouthfeel and texture. This will cellar for a decade or more, but its balance and elegance mean it offers immediate gratification too.
(2023) An assemblage of all the parcels within Château de Pommard's walled and organically-farmed 'Marey-Monge' vineyard, fermentation took place in steel with 60% whole-clusters, before 15 months ageing in 20% new French oak barrels. As always with this property there's a sweet fruited solidity to the wine, aromas are spicy with pot-pourri notes of dried flowers and herbs, over dusty raspberry moving into black fruits. In the mouth the firm tannins of this young wine grip, the acidity adds another thread of sinew, but deep fruit is locked within. This will repay cellaring for sure, and may well notch up an extra point or two with time, but in its rich but firm style it is already delicious.
(2022) As with all of the wines from Carabello-Baum that I have tried, this is a plush and concentrated style of Burgundy, expressing spice, black fruit and liquorice, emphasised here by the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir and its undeniable structure. Intense black cherry on the nose, but also small floral nuances and a suggestion of meatiness beneath, it's a powerful but intriguing aromatic. In the mouth the tannins are striking and chocolate-smooth, there's a real edge of acid and savoury, quite gravelly character to the ripe, deep fruit. Tingling with spice in the long finish, its an intense and concetrated expression, and a very impressive one. Should cellar for 10 years easily.
