Les GrÃ¨ves is named for its gravel soils over a limestone base, and is a favourite premier cru of mine. This, from very old vines, is drinking beautifully 20 years on. The colour is pale and transluscent, but vivid with no browing. Aromatically it is all sweet and pulpy red fruits, some elegant floral notes but also a sweet earthiness to add another layer. In the mouth the sweetness of fruit surprises: cherry and summer pudding fruits, though is there a little stalky bitterness in the background? Fairly light-bodied, it is fairly simple in the final analysis, fresh acidity and soft tannins, though that twist of bitterness gives tension on the finish. I am not certain this particular bottle would benefit from much more cellaring, and the fruit is in a very nice place right now.