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(2022) From a family domaine, this comes from the higher slopes to the west of the main Côtes de Nuits vineyards, with some fruit from their oldest, 55-year-old vines in the blend. Lovely nose, suffused with dark cherry and some exotic Sandalwood, some gentle forest-floor character too. In the mouth a wine that combines sweet, ripe fruit showing a certain plumpness, with creamy and smooth tannins and pert and juicy acidity to lovely effect. The more exotic spices flit around the finish, which is dry and nicely rustic, giving this solidity and grip.

Les Grèves is named for its gravel soils over a limestone base, and is a favourite premier cru of mine. This, from very old vines, is drinking beautifully 20 years on. The colour is pale and transluscent, but vivid with no browing. Aromatically it is all sweet and pulpy red fruits, some elegant floral notes but also a sweet earthiness to add another layer. In the mouth the sweetness of fruit surprises: cherry and summer pudding fruits, though is there a little stalky bitterness in the background? Fairly light-bodied, it is fairly simple in the final analysis, fresh acidity and soft tannins, though that twist of bitterness gives tension on the finish. I am not certain this particular bottle would benefit from much more cellaring, and the fruit is in a very nice place right now.

(2016) Lighter and more open in colour, and has a lot more truffle and earthiness, and then it is juicy and ripe on the palate but a lovely length and purity, with lots of acidity and freshness, the wood felt as just a tiny balsamic note. Has more light and shade than the 2010s, but perhaps less structure and fruit concentration.
(2016) Quite dense, almost chocolaty, with a real ripeness and richness and depth of fruit (the first 2010 of this line up). The palate is fleshy and plush, a big plum and blackberry ripeness, but it has a solid if slightly baked feel, plenty of smooth and silky tannin and sufficient acidity. Not as elegant as some of the lighter vintages, but impressive and Beaune like.
(2016) Quite closed, a touch reductive, with some leafy and lightly floral notes just appearing, and then the palate opening to show creamier red fruits and a lot of substance and flesh. Long and quite powerful.
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