(2023) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils and 40- to 50-year old vines. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel, 80% as whole clusters, with several weeks maceration. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels (25% new), like the 2019 vintage it has compelling, bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries, raspberry and a hint of undergrowth and liquorice giving a firm aromatic edge. That intensity of fruit carries through to the palate, where I really enjoyed the tension between 'prettiness' of red fruits and the hint of sinew and structure from firm tannins and keen plum-skin acidity. A lovely, robust and yet absolutely elegant wine.
(2023) Micault is a 1.29 hectare plot within the Clos Marey-Monge, on pink sandstone. The wine is certified organic. Eighty percent of the grapes are whole-bunch vinified, then aged in barrel for 15 months, but only 15% new oak. Typical of the domaine's wines, it marries a juicy, unashamed depth of ripe red berry fruit with terroir notes of minerals and light smokiness. On the palate that energy from very delicate oak influence and ripe but refined tannins and acids gives beautiful mouthfeel and texture. This will cellar for a decade or more, but its balance and elegance mean it offers immediate gratification too.
(2023) An assemblage of all the parcels within Château de Pommard's walled and organically-farmed 'Marey-Monge' vineyard, fermentation took place in steel with 60% whole-clusters, before 15 months ageing in 20% new French oak barrels. As always with this property there's a sweet fruited solidity to the wine, aromas are spicy with pot-pourri notes of dried flowers and herbs, over dusty raspberry moving into black fruits. In the mouth the firm tannins of this young wine grip, the acidity adds another thread of sinew, but deep fruit is locked within. This will repay cellaring for sure, and may well notch up an extra point or two with time, but in its rich but firm style it is already delicious.
(2022) As with all of the wines from Carabello-Baum that I have tried, this is a plush and concentrated style of Burgundy, expressing spice, black fruit and liquorice, emphasised here by the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir and its undeniable structure. Intense black cherry on the nose, but also small floral nuances and a suggestion of meatiness beneath, it's a powerful but intriguing aromatic. In the mouth the tannins are striking and chocolate-smooth, there's a real edge of acid and savoury, quite gravelly character to the ripe, deep fruit. Tingling with spice in the long finish, its an intense and concetrated expression, and a very impressive one. Should cellar for 10 years easily.
(2021) Really quite dark and a touch more solid than the 2018, though far from opaque. The nose has smokiness and meatiness, perhaps a touch reduced at this stage, but that does not mask the terroir aromas that are consistent through these samples. The palate has a coffeeish texture and density, a little espresso shot adding depth to the red fruits and the crunch of the acidity. Seville orange and bitter cherry drive the fish, spicy but the fruit so powerful. This should improve over several years, but is a terrific young wine with obvious potential. No UK stockists listed at time of review. Check the wine-searcher link for current availability.
(2021) Similar colour to the 2017, but for me back more towards the cherry and floral, almost kirsch like lift of the fruit. A hint of mint and coffee. The palate is another glorious mouthful of young Burgundy, and although there is a little more roundness here, perhaps a touch more grasse than the '17, it tensions up beautifully, finishing with all the grip and precision of its structure, long and endlessly interesting once again. Not UK stockists listed at time of review. Check wine-searcher link for current availability.
(2021) Similar colour, perhaps a touch more towards garnet than the 2016. A more fruity character compared to the singing florals of the 2015, a touch of smokiness and even a touch of sizzling bacon fat way in the background. Racy and delicious, with great peppery, spicy components as well as that crunchy fresh fruit. The mineral qualities and finesse of the acids make for a thrilling finish, ending with great spicy presence and length.
(2021) Again that darker hue, but not at all dense in colour, the terroir speaks again, a lifted, beguiling perfume showing rose-petal and delicate red fruit aromas as well as a twist of something darker discreetly in the background. Dry tannins add a little grip and then the intensity of acids and compact, juicy fruit is delicious. Great energy.
(2021) Very dark and vivid crimson, but also semi-transparent, and such a refined perfume.There is a suggestion of smoky mineral and light ashiness, lots of refined spice and there is an ethereal, delicate perfume that is hard to pin down. The palate has a fabulous thrust of juiciness and mouth-watering acidity, scything through the flesh of the fruit. There’s a little coffee too, but the outstanding energy of this wine drives to a fabulous finish. At the moment the retail stockists I can find only have double magnums (four-bottle equivalent) available at around £2,500 - £3,000.
(2021) In colour somewhere between the 15 and 17, with savoury fruit dominating, lots of sour cherry and Seville orange to the fruit and acidity, with the fleshiness of ripe berries coming through on the mid-palate, but swept up in the structural elements, particularly the acids.