(2023) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils and 40- to 50-year old vines. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel, 80% as whole clusters, with several weeks maceration. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels (25% new), like the 2019 vintage it has compelling, bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries, raspberry and a hint of undergrowth and liquorice giving a firm aromatic edge. That intensity of fruit carries through to the palate, where I really enjoyed the tension between 'prettiness' of red fruits and the hint of sinew and structure from firm tannins and keen plum-skin acidity. A lovely, robust and yet absolutely elegant wine.
(2023) Micault is a 1.29 hectare plot within the Clos Marey-Monge, on pink sandstone. The wine is certified organic. Eighty percent of the grapes are whole-bunch vinified, then aged in barrel for 15 months, but only 15% new oak. Typical of the domaine's wines, it marries a juicy, unashamed depth of ripe red berry fruit with terroir notes of minerals and light smokiness. On the palate that energy from very delicate oak influence and ripe but refined tannins and acids gives beautiful mouthfeel and texture. This will cellar for a decade or more, but its balance and elegance mean it offers immediate gratification too.
(2023) An assemblage of all the parcels within Château de Pommard's walled and organically-farmed 'Marey-Monge' vineyard, fermentation took place in steel with 60% whole-clusters, before 15 months ageing in 20% new French oak barrels. As always with this property there's a sweet fruited solidity to the wine, aromas are spicy with pot-pourri notes of dried flowers and herbs, over dusty raspberry moving into black fruits. In the mouth the firm tannins of this young wine grip, the acidity adds another thread of sinew, but deep fruit is locked within. This will repay cellaring for sure, and may well notch up an extra point or two with time, but in its rich but firm style it is already delicious.
(2022) As with all of the wines from Carabello-Baum that I have tried, this is a plush and concentrated style of Burgundy, expressing spice, black fruit and liquorice, emphasised here by the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir and its undeniable structure. Intense black cherry on the nose, but also small floral nuances and a suggestion of meatiness beneath, it's a powerful but intriguing aromatic. In the mouth the tannins are striking and chocolate-smooth, there's a real edge of acid and savoury, quite gravelly character to the ripe, deep fruit. Tingling with spice in the long finish, its an intense and concetrated expression, and a very impressive one. Should cellar for 10 years easily.
(2021) Similar colour to the 2017, but for me back more towards the cherry and floral, almost kirsch like lift of the fruit. A hint of mint and coffee. The palate is another glorious mouthful of young Burgundy, and although there is a little more roundness here, perhaps a touch more grasse than the '17, it tensions up beautifully, finishing with all the grip and precision of its structure, long and endlessly interesting once again. Not UK stockists listed at time of review. Check wine-searcher link for current availability.
(2021) Again that darker hue, but not at all dense in colour, the terroir speaks again, a lifted, beguiling perfume showing rose-petal and delicate red fruit aromas as well as a twist of something darker discreetly in the background. Dry tannins add a little grip and then the intensity of acids and compact, juicy fruit is delicious. Great energy.
(2021) In colour somewhere between the 15 and 17, with savoury fruit dominating, lots of sour cherry and Seville orange to the fruit and acidity, with the fleshiness of ripe berries coming through on the mid-palate, but swept up in the structural elements, particularly the acids.
(2021) A lot paler and softer in colour than the 15 or 16, a touch of coffee and a little more red fruited compared to the others. This feels more mature in many ways, a little more open and loosely knit but a lovely wine for drinking now, the sweetness of the fruit combined with softer tannins and pert cherry skin tangy acidity gives lots of pleasure and still plenty of bite and structure.
(2021) Again the colour darker and more dense, graphite and Morello cherry, there is polished wood and some truffle, but once again the supple fleshy gloss of this is a different world from the other 1er Crus entirely. Mouthfilling, smoky and rich, there is huge sweetness on the mid-palate, touching into chocolate, before that characteristic freshness and juicy propulsion of the structure drives to a long, elegant and spicy finish. Harvested at an almost unbelievable 9hl/ha, only two tanks were made in 2016 rather than the more normal four or five.
(2021) The depth and solidity of colour is immediately so striking, as is the powerful minerality and meat-stock depth to this. We’ve moved to a darker fruit spectrum, but still vivid and vibrant, immediately suggesting energy. A sweet, concentrated fruit power and energy, positively silky, slicked with vanilla and combining intense, fleshy black fruits with the elegance and precision of the tannins and acids to wonderful effect.