(2021) Really quite dark and a touch more solid than the 2018, though far from opaque. The nose has smokiness and meatiness, perhaps a touch reduced at this stage, but that does not mask the terroir aromas that are consistent through these samples. The palate has a coffeeish texture and density, a little espresso shot adding depth to the red fruits and the crunch of the acidity. Seville orange and bitter cherry drive the fish, spicy but the fruit so powerful. This should improve over several years, but is a terrific young wine with obvious potential. No UK stockists listed at time of review. Check the wine-searcher link for current availability.

(2021) Similar colour, perhaps a touch more towards garnet than the 2016. A more fruity character compared to the singing florals of the 2015, a touch of smokiness and even a touch of sizzling bacon fat way in the background. Racy and delicious, with great peppery, spicy components as well as that crunchy fresh fruit. The mineral qualities and finesse of the acids make for a thrilling finish, ending with great spicy presence and length.

(2021) Very dark and vivid crimson, but also semi-transparent, and such a refined perfume.There is a suggestion of smoky mineral and light ashiness, lots of refined spice and there is an ethereal, delicate perfume that is hard to pin down. The palate has a fabulous thrust of juiciness and mouth-watering acidity, scything through the flesh of the fruit. There’s a little coffee too, but the outstanding energy of this wine drives to a fabulous finish. At the moment the retail stockists I can find only have double magnums (four-bottle equivalent) available at around £2,500 - £3,000.

(2020) Only 1,800 bottles are produced of this cuvée, from a plot within a plot: half a hectare of the monopole vineyard, Clos Marey-Monge, identified as having one of the highest surface densities of clay in Burgundy. It has quite a rich, ruby colour, and a beautifully spicy and fragrant nose. There is a pot-pourri mix of florals and anise, Sandalwood and all sorts of exotic, incense-like aromas, with savoury red plum and small black fruits. Immediately a little more feminine than Pommard's normally quite sturdy character, but it has great presence. In the mouth there's a suave density to this - not just the creamy plushness of the smoothing oak, but an intensity to the fruit too. Sweet and solid, it's again a combination of full and glossy black fruits and more lifted raspberry and even pomegrante, slicked with a dark cocoa bean underpinning. There is good grip and savouriness that pushes into the finish, creamy and ripe tannin, but retaining lovely freshness. Long, pure, elegance with power, the fruit beautifully integrated into its savoury, taut balance. Available on allocation.

(2019) Last tasted over a decade ago, this now has a fair amount of amber on the rim and is pale and transluscent. The immediate aroma is of damp woodland undergrowth and fresh-picked truffle, earthy and lightly spiced, the red berry fruitiness sits elegantly beneath. In the mouth the concentration of sweet, ripe flavour surprises. There's lightness and a floating, gossamer character to this, the fruit so silky and joyously sweet, yet racing and delicate, touches of rose-hip and pulpy strawberry to a much grippier, more savoury liquorice and edive bite, which adds a lovely sense of bittersweetness. It has simply huge length, the precision and clarity of the fruit driving, always driving, but the resolved tannins and wonderful acid balance extending the finish. An outstanding wine by absolutely any measure, and although now prohibitively expensive, it joins the list of my greatest Burgundy experiences.