(2024) Marimar says she experimented with a Tempranillo for a decade before deciding quality was right. This, with seven years under its belt, is glorious with a beautiful quality of oak from 12 months in French oak barrels, 50% new, coopered by Magreñán from the Vosges forest. It was bottled in August 2018. This has a fabulous nose, bloody and game-streaked over really ripe, deep berry fruit, a slick of chocolate underpinning. The palate has bountiful fruit, depth and texture with that touch of roasted coffee bean adding plushness. A Rioja Reserva of the highest level would stand alongside this, and it does have that extra ounce of Californian fruit intensity perhaps.
(2023) Forget the oceans of cheap 'blush' Zinfandel produced in California. This red wine grape is also capable of deep, big-scaled, full-throttle reds of which this 15.4% alcohol behemoth is one example. From old, old vines in Lodi - up to 120 years old - it is barrel fermented and aged. Inky-dark crimson, The nose is smoothly suffused with chocolate and berries, a little floral top note adding interest. In the mouth it is luscious and full. It has to be said that the alcohol is well-handled; it's there alright, adding some heat and volume, but the plushness of the fruit and lip-tingling spice and acidity is a counter-weight. Not for everyone, but if you like the sound of it, it's a wine that delivers.
(2023) From Napa Valley's Oak Knoll district, this is a mighty Bordeaux blend that quite unusually for this region majors on Malbec (52%), plus 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot. It's a plush and hedonistic style, 18 months in barrels, 50% new, adding all the chocolate and cream. As well as the copious black fruit there's a delightful violet lift too, showing the floral side of Malbec, and the palate is as glossy as black silk, the ripe, sweet tannins and generous plummy acidity barely ruffling the surface of the deep pool of smooth black fruit and mocha. It's a wine that some may find too much, but it's also a glorious mouthful of archetypal Napa red.
(2022) A sumptuous style of Pinot this, brimming with the ripe fruit of California, bramble and nicely ripe red and black berries, but exotic too, Sandalwood and perfumed spices moving into floral notes. The fruit becomes more piquant and cherry-ripe with a little air. On the palate there is masses of sweetness and intensity, real concentrated and firm-edged black fruit, hints of bitter dark chocolate and spiciness to spare. Juicy but tart and mouth-watering plumskin grip from tannins and fine liquorice acidity adds some cut and thrust too. A relatively large-scaled Pinot, but very nicely made indeed.
(2021) A blend of four Pinot Noir clones, 31% Dijon 667, 29% Pommard, 20% Dijon 115, and 20% Swan, destemmed and fermented in stainless steel followed by ageing in French oak, 46% new barrels. A rich and fulsome Pinot, 14.5% alcohol and ripe, but not without finesse and a certain elegance. The nose has graphite and some herb and briarwood notes, but there is refined black fruit too, plenty of it, compote and a hint of cherry to give some freshness. In the mouth that balance of substance - fruit extract, tannin and cherry-pit acidity - but a savoury, quite agile quality too. Long, fresh and focused on fruit and acidity in the finish.
(2018) From young vines a fruity and youthful style - Andy says "You cannot make profound wines from very young vines." So this is aimed at early drinking and is apparently very popular as a by-the-glass wine in upmarket restaurants. It comes from an old massal selection of vines. Only 10% sees oak, and I thought it had just lovely buoyant cherry and red plum fruit, nice spice and a touch of tobacco. Similar palate, juicy and vital, delicious tang and cherry flesh and juiciness, finishing with a kirsch like intensity but lovely balance and energy. OK, not the layering of the other Pinots perhaps, but delightful.
(2016) From the Doña Margarita vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, maturation was in French oak, 36% new. Fine, soft ruby and earthy colour, plemty of plum and spices, a tobacco and clove spice with chocolate tones too. In the mouth it is full and generous, suede-like texture and ripe chocolaty tannins against the pert acidity, but a fine truffly Pinot sweet earthiness propels it into the finish. This should cellar well, but is delicious now. Note, price is per bottle when purchased as a six-bottle case.
(2016) What a superb, aromatic and perfumed Pinot this is from the Don Miguel Vineyard in the Russian River. Farmed biodynamically, the vineyard is mostly planted with the Swan Pinot clone, with 30% Pommard, and 10% Dijon clones. This wine is aged in French oak, 40% of which is new. The nose really is gorgeous, framing seductive berries, violet and sweet exotic spice with some earth and woodland truffle notes, before a palate that ripples with cherry and sweet red fruit, an undertow of spice and chocolate, and smooth as silk tannins against the pretty acidity. Terrific and will probably age well for a decade.
(2014) Crossbarns is not a second wine as such, but an entirely separate label with its own winery (based in an old apple barn). "It's its own entity with its own winemaking staff," says Paul. It uses "Hand-me-down oak from the Paul Hobbs programme," with very little new oak. There's a small percentage of whole bunches with stems in the fermentation and maceration. Very good, deep colour, with an intense cherry aroma and incense-like notes of spices and Sandalwood. The palate has just deliciously focused fruit. There is also spice, a touch of briar and rhubarb/sappiness, and delicate floral notes amongst the power of the tannin and alcohol firmness. Lovely length with deep layers of flavour and texture.
(2014) There is a touch of Sonoma Coast fruit here too - up to 15% for a Pinot made in small, wide open top fermenters, all hand punched. All fruit picked at night again and this has a higher percentage of whole clusters, than the Crossbarn, as well as around 45% new oak. Meatier, deeper, more towards the mellow autumnal notes, more towards pure plum and chocolate, but also a subtle underpinning of truffle. The alcohol is 14.5%, but it does not show too much, with little notes of fragrant, ashy quality, a touch of cedar, a touch more grippy in the tannin structure too. Power and concentration, but not too much as it retains balance.
