(2020) Principally made from Jaen (Mencia) alongside Touriga Nacional, this red wine from the mountainous Dão region of Portugal really is a 2003, aged 18 months in older French oak barrels, but then for well over a decade in bottle by the iconoclastic João Tavares de Pina. The colour is aged and mellow, brick on the rim, with aromas of dried red berries, sweet damp earth and undergrowth truffle and briar. Served quite cool, the fruit on the palate is delicious, sweeter and riper than the nose might suggest, and firmer and more youthful too: there's a creamy richness of black fruits, spicy tannins and cooling acidity into a long finish. It's a treat, and though I have no idea how much longer you could keep this, question is, why would you?

(2019) Lovely big, dense chocolate and red plum character, creamy and meaty. Cedar and some tobacco comes through, lightening the picture. Seven months in used barrel, but keen, bright, edgy and focused tart berry fruit character, really grippy tannin and keen acidity add plenty of structure to the fresh fruit.

(2019) From three vineyards on different soils, to add complexity. Lovely fragrance here, and a tight glossiness to the black fruit, a big raft of plum skin and black cherry acidity and tight spicy tannin, a delicious wine with great structure, fruit and freshness, with excellent length too. Again price is when buying a six-bottle case, but wine-searcher link will show other stockists with single bottles around £22.00

(2017) A 15-year-old wine from the Dão doesn't come along every day, and the good news is this is an absolute beauty. A blend of the local Jaen (Spain's Mencia) and Rufete, it's a Burgundy-lover's dream, brimming with truffle and damp forest floor aromas, a touch of medicinal, herb and briar-wood, and a soft background of earthy, cedar-touched bramble fruit. In the mouth the creamy sweetness of the ripe berries is gorgeous, layered with spices and truffly, meat and herb notes, it is complex but at the same time deliciously moreish. What a treat. For more information watch my video review.