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(2024) Made in Teliani's qvevri winery, in the clay amphora-like pots traditional to the region. Grapes from the village of Kisiskhevi in Kakheti are selected for this bottling, which has skins removed from the qvevri after nine days or so, before continuing to mature. The first thing that strikes as different is the herb and dried twig character of the aroma. These are light forest floor aromas, with a meaty and gamy undertone. In the mouth the fruit is dense and in the blackberry and damson plum spectrum, but that very dry character - twigs and briar again - has a completely different tannic structure, coating the mouth in dusty tannin with fine acid too. There is ripeness here, the mid-palate showing that, but the mouth-watering dry finish is striking. Only 6,500 bottles produced.
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