(2023) An unoaked blend of Pinot Noir 60%, Gamay 35% and Côt 5%, this comes from clay and limestone soils. Crimson red, with a delicate, translucent rim. The nose is refined and pretty. The absence of oak allows soft berry and lightly herbal smoky notes to show through, leading on to a palate which burst with surprising fruit ripeness and sweetness. There is nice weight, the purity of fruit persisting to a finish that stays taut with crispness to both tannins and acidity.
(2023) Fourth generation wine producers, the Desbourdes, make this organically certified Cabernet Franc. Vivid crimson-purple in colour, it has intense, sheer, red fruit with a hint of sappy, peppery character. Juicy on the palate, there is the tartness of raspberries, but a satin texture and suggestion of a little cocoa depth to the fruit flavour. The finish is long and pure, gentle tannins and unobtrusive acidity giving freshness while maintaining its easy drinking appeal.
(2022) A Chinon from the Loire Valley and a very hot year. Couly Dutheil is an estate that has moved from new barrels, to old, to now no oak: this cuvee is all made in steel. Plenty of floral and even exotic notes here, substantial meatiness too, a big wine (15.5% alcohol) but it does carry that rather well, as aicidty is retained and the grippy tannins give extra bite and clarity. Stockist is for a previous vintage at time of review.