(2024) From a small, sustainably-run estate in Martinborough, this is absolutely the style I expect, with a bit of solidity and higher alcohol, but not without fragrance and elegance. At eight years of agethere's a mere hint of tawny on the rim, but aromas are immediately fresh, with wild strawberry meshing with a sizzle of bacon fat, some truffle and a deeper fruit character. The palate has a certain meatiness and there is a grounding of coffee-ish oak that gives a touch of char. But on top, the fruit is bright and sharply focused, with plenty of acidity and a smoothness to the tannins. I do feel the heat of the alcohol a little, which knocks it back a point or two, but a premium example of quite a serious Martinborough style.

(2024) With 13.8% alcohol this is just a bit lighter than the 2014, and for me, that's a marginal benefit. Colour is much the same with just a hint of amber on the rim as nine years old, but the nose seems to have just a touch more light and shade, floral and light, herbs and briarwood character showing through a little more. Delightfully sweet fruit on the palate, this gaining in sweet-fruited purity what the 2014 has in more muscular density. Very refined and elegant this, in both fruit, tannin, cherry-ripe acidity and a more background quality to the oak.

(2024) Made with 10% whole bunches, part wild-fermented. After 14 – 15 days maceration the juice was basket pressed into French oak barriques, 20% of which were new. Still that chestnutty character, but perhaps just a little more lift to this, a little more floral and raspberry fruit character, but the meaty, umami notes still there there, a cordial-like richness. In the mouth tannins are quite silky but edge the plummy fruit with a bit of liquorice or endive bite, accentuated by a firm acid structure. Oak is background component, perhaps adding just a touch of espresso darkness. Some more time in bottle would suit the wine I think.        

(2024) This Reserve vintage from Dublin St. is in an absolutely perfect place. Basket pressed to French oak barriques (25% new) for 12 months, it is infused with a swirl of tobacco and coffee, a cedary elegance too. The fruit is intense but in an elegant, red-fruited style, floral notes flitting around raspberry and fat, ripe cherry. The palate caresses with silky tannins and more of that glossy, ripe and juicy fruit, but there's an edge here, between truffle and tapenade, giving a savoury, chewy balance to the opulence. Long, fruity, but serious and juicy with a keen orange acidity, it's a lovely Pinot.    

(2022) From a block on Te Muna Road, planted at high density in 1999. Fermented in large French oak casks, it was aged in 50% new French oak barriques for 18 months. Dark, less vibrantly coloured than the Te Mata, there's a sappy character to this, quite a deep olive note to the black fruit, gentle truffle beneath. On the palate so juicy and bold, a really decisive acid thrust with a creamy and dense tannin and wood background, giving a polish and intensity.

(2022) Most of the fruit comes from certified organic vineyards 35 kilometeres from the coast, six different clones of Pinot. Fermented with a pied de cuve wild yeast, 20% whole bunches, and 10 months maturing in French oak. Relatively dense and dark in colour. A big, bold fruit and oak nose that is very different from the lighter style of the preceding wine. Ripe and chocolaty, but there is perfume. The palate has weight and textue, an earthy character, truffle and woodland notes and a little lick of salt on the finish.

(2021) A little closed on first opening, this single vineyard wine blossoms in the glass, a lovely layering of floral, fruit and truffle aromas beautifully integrated and refined, chestnut and briar notes adding depth. In the mouth there is creaminess and a ripe, sweet cherry and red plum fruit, a fine sense of mineral tension through the tannins and acidity, to give this tension as well as a certain opulence. Could well benefit from further cellaring for five to ten years.

(2014) Virgil Kerr is a young Australian winemaker working as a contract winemaker in New Zealand. He suggests this Pinot will drink best in five to eight years from now. It has a charming, pale garnet colour, and a delightfully flower-touched nose, small rose-hip notes, then a briary, lightly herbal nuance, the fruit pretty with strawberry and raspberry character. On the palate there's a lovely background of creamy cappuccino, but it is overlayed by a nicely sappy, brightly-focused red fruit character and spice. The tannins are quite tight, but they have a finesse and just enough roughening grip at present, and the acidity seems very natural, like cherry skins. With 13.5% alcohol it is balanced, and it is long, with lovely components that should meld further given a little bottle age. A very successful Pinot, typically Marlborough in style, but top-end stuff.