(2019) Castelão is an important grape variety in southern Portugal, especially here in Palmela, on the Setúbal peninsula just south of Lisbon. Fermented in cement tanks with wild yeasts, it has a very soulful, deep and inviting aroma, plummy and ripe, but the wild ferment just gives that extra element of mystery and dry mineral character too. Loads of plush, ripe, juicy and fleshy black fruit on the palate, rich in texture and flavour, tannins quite sandy but fine, and a liquorice bite to the acidity. Most enjoyable.