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(2020) Well, this is just delicious and already drinking well, though undoubtedly with many years ahead of it. Quite pale and touched by amber on the rim, there's great fragrance here, old roses and tar, classic Barolo, plenty of fruit, pencil-shaving and spices too in a complex but alluring picture. In the mouth so soft already, the initial impression at least with that supple, fleshy fruit, but the firmness of the structure here begins to impact, telling you there's a serious side to this, lovely cherry acidity and bit of sinew to the tannins, finishing on fruit spice and structural grip. Price and stockist quoted at time of review is for the previous vintage.
(2012) Made from old vines (some 50 years old) grown at around 350 metres altitude, this is aged in small barrels, but those are second fill, so its effect on the nose is to add a savoury, cedary touch to the sinewy, graphite and cherry fruit. It is not so seductively perfumed as the Palladino below, but nuances of game and something floral are in there, and it has a sense of structure and seriousness about it. On the palate its authority is obvious: it's a very dry wine, all dry tannins and concentration, but it has a leanness and a gravel and spice savouriness at its core. The acidity is lovely - a fresh bit of cherry skin - and the long, spicy finish is both harmonious and intense.
(2012) What an alluring nose, brimming with gamy and perfumed scents mingling roses, dried blood and tobacco, a briary note and touch of iron giving a bit of serious character too. In the mouth it is equally complex and pleasurable: there's a sweet, concentrated fruit richness at the core of this, of black cherry and intense raspberry compote, but the gravelly, dusty tannins, support of nicely judged oak (this spends two years in French oak barriques) and plenty of sour cherry acidity gives lovely food-matching structure too. Fairly lean in the finish, but that adds to the feeling of precision.
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