(2024) The newest of Vajra's various Cru Barolos, first released in 2015. From very sandy soils, which Giuseppe believes adds a red fruit aromatic intensity. A dark but quite translucent colour to this, notes of chestnut at first, but an unfurling bouquet, a higher fragrance that has floral and gently leafy green herbs, but there's a real finesse and lightness to this, a brightness and elegance. Yes, the tannins are there, but very fine, so their impact is felt but not oppressive. So taut and polished through the mid-palate, intense, and yet the harmony is what strikes. To be honest this is drinking beautifully right now, though clearly it has substantial time ahead of it. At time of review most stockists offer this wine only by the case.  

(2024) Giuseppe describes this vineyard as having 'lasagne soils,' referring to layers of iron oxide, which he thinks adds a weight to the tannin structure. Aged 28 months in various sizes of Slavonian oak, the colour is a quite transparent ruby, and aromas leap from the glass, all in the floral and cherry spectrum, violet and even a hint of lily, with some ground ginger in the mix. In the mouth it simply bursts with sweet but featherweight red fruits, so juicy and ripe, but all the time tensioned by its taut structure of fine tannin and elegant acid grip. It is medium-bodied and deliciously drinkable now, but once again there is no doubt this easily has 10 years+ of cellaring potential. At time of review most stockists offer this wine only by the case.

(2024) Bricco delle Viole is a high vineyard peaking at 450 metres. It is planted on distinctive chalk soils with iron oxide and manganese. Giuseppe Vajra believes that gives a more restrained personality, from very old vines, some dating back almost 100 years. There's such a polished, luxurious quality to this wine, that begins aromatically with mocha coffee underpinning ripe, dark vine fruits. I tasted this wine twice, not decanted, but the bottle sealed over a couple of days, in which time highlights of violet and a hint of patchouli fragrance emerged, but the calm and collected elegance remained. In the mouth the tannin and acid profile is tight and firm rather than aggressive, spices join the black fruit flavours, with nuances of Seville orange and liquorice adding to the complexity. At time of review most stockists offer this wine only by the case.

(2020) From one of the steepest hillsides of the region, and chalky lime soils, this vineyard sits at 350- to 390-metres, across the road from Vigna Rionda. A shade paler than the Cerretta perhaps, the nose a little more mellow showing sweet damp earth and truffle already, a firm chestnut character and again that very sophisticated polish of the large French oak casks even a hint of Patchouli in the emerging, exotic fragrance. In the mouth wonderful sweetness of fruit here, wonderful intensity, slightly more open than the Cerretta arguably, but tensioned by those polished tannins and exquisite acid balance, the finish is long, concentrated, but never heavy. Again, a baby, but a beautiful one.

(2020) The Cerretta vineyard sits between 320 and 450 metres altitude, on limestone and clay soils. This cuvée spends three years in large French oak 'botti'. Deep ruby with a softening on the rim, this is polished and refined on the nose, a graphite and pencil-shaving precision and elegance, notes of fine herbs, a touch of bloodiness and discreet red fruits. In the mouth it's a gorgeous wine, powerful and dense in terms of concentration and texture, but edged by supple tannins and cherry-pit dry acidity that gives a cool, very precise feel. The fruit is sweet and smoothly supple too, but there's a restrained grip and serious intent here, in a baby Barolo that will cellar for decades without a doubt. Available from September 2020.

(2020) From younger vines (planted in 2011) in the same Vigna Rionda vineyard that supplies the top Vigna Rionda Barolo, this is aged in large barrels of oak from the Fontainebleau forest for 12 months. Fine, pale colour, and a lovely delicate strawberry and raspberry note to the herbs and forest floor spices on the nose. Some floral top notes just developing. In the mouth it is structured, cool and correct: fairly tightly wound at this youthful stage, the surge of acdity through the mid-palate to join the fruit, and the taut, very fine tannins, giving lots of tension and linear focus. The spices, the hints of game and truffle, are just starting to develop, but it remains cool and elegantly concentrated and intense into the finish. Needs time.

(2020) Decanted for three hours to allow this baby just a chance of opening up slightly. It pours a youthful but pale colour with a broad Amber rim. Taut, firm, graphite and briar aromas, hints of curling woodsmoke and spices, some floral notes floating somewhere above very firm cherry pit notes. Compact and tightly furled. The palate tight as a drum currently, but so beautifully composed, fruit, creamy tannin and generous but firm acids all perfectly balanced. Some tobacco spice and a touch of truffle and polished wood adding a layer of depth. So young, needs years - probably decades - but very, very elegant and refined indeed.

(2015) Giacosa Along with Barolo, Barbaresco is the other 'great' wine of Piedmont, and this is a typically fresh and vital interpretation from Giacosa. Lots of cherry and bold floral and juicy red fruits, a wisp of smoke and hints of exotic incense, the nose is velvety but hugely fresh. On the palate such a gorgeous concentration without extraction. Its dry tannin structure suggests great youth and great potential, but the length and precision has chocolate and ripe plum lushness too. A 20-year wine potentially normally sold only in cases of six, and on allocation.