(2018) The first production of this super-Ventoux: apparently the quality of the Syrah from a vineyard planted in 1961 was so exceptional in this vintage that winemaker Sebastien Vincenti decided it must be bottled as a separate cuvée. That seems to have been a good decision, with eRobertParker awarding it 95 points. It's a fabulously smoky and meaty wine, a complex perfume that moves from game to violet and from grilling bacon to fresh-cracked pepper, a core of firm black fruit running through it. In the mouth this does not let up, a silkiness of texture despite a hefty tannin framework (that should see it age well), but that meatiness and the freshness of the cherry-pit acidity balances beautifully. A twist of bittersweet liquorice adds to the intrigue in a truly fabulous wine. Very limited quantities made, and obviously limited availability.
(2017) A firm, tannic and intense Châteauneuf, this is mostly Grenache with 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre and is polished, dense and fairly closed on the nose, though with a black fruit concentration. The palate maintains that concentration, a rich, deep inkiness, but real sweetness of fruit does come through as well as spice, and the heat and fat of the alcohol. Liquoricy and very firm, it nevertheless does reveal little glimpsed of more aromatic and peppery, even floral characters, but the intensity never lets up.
(2015) This special cuvée from Domaine Brusset is composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre. Fermented with only wild yeasts once more, this time around 70% of the blend is aged in small barrels. It has a delightful nose, with the wisp of fresh-cracked stones, pepper and something leafy like soft dill herbs, the black olive and sinewy dark berries filling in behind. On the palate a wine that has obvious concentration and chewy, serious credentials for long ageing, but where the sweetness of the fruit, ripe tannins and supporting smoky oak are all there to add some plushness and make it highly drinkable already. And that olive-like, herbal touch is so fresh and appealing into a long, powerful finish.
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