(2023) A biodynamic wine from vines planted in 1958 in Ribera del Duero's 'golden mile' (home to Vega-Sicilia, etc.). Fermentation was in new French-oak casks, where it aged for 22 months and rested a further 10 months after bottling. There's a definite smokiness and sense of polish to the aromatics here, but quite tightly wound and not too expressive at this stage. It's a big, structured and powerful wine, the tannins and dry extract coating the mouth with an inky, dark layer. Slightly ungiving at present, there are just hints of sweet, ripe fruit notes, but plenty of biting damson-skin dry acidity also adds to a bittersweet and quite chewy character. Another that I would want to decant or cellar in the hope it would ease out slightly. Multibuy £67.50.

(2018) From Roda's estate on the northern bank of the Duero, this is Corimbo 1, where Agustin places "an emphasis on Roda elegance, well handled oak and freshness." So much more on the rich, intense small black fruit side. Sweet small berries with intensely creamy flavour and texture. Fine, chocolaty tannins and sweet acidity complete a svelte and delicious picture. Great Ribera del Duero and though there are no UK stockists of the 2013 at time of writing, 2010 and 2011 is quite widely available.

(2012) Not on market until 2014. Meaty and a little touch reduced, but has a deep, quite sinewy and sensual appeal. Lots of spice. The palate has lovely balance: at this stage so young and relatively straightforward, and a little difficult to judge at this stage, but clearly good fruit, structure and balance.

(2012) Fantastic impression of sweetness, with a touch of roasted chestnut and black berries, touches of saddle leather and truffle too. I love the sour cherry thrust of the fruit and acidity here. The balance is impeccable, the fruit still there, the sweet smokiness swirling through the finish and the tannin and acid nice and tight. A lovely wine.