(2024) A limited production wine made from 100-year-old Tempranillo from a single vineyard at 550 metres in the Rioja Alta region. It spent seven months in French oak barrels and 10 more in bottle before release. Vanilla, rich black fruit and a racy suggestion of gravel and cedar are the opening impressions. There's a little hint of violet lift too. In the mouth it is firm and structured. A vinous black plum, blackcurrant intensity of fruit floods the mid-palate, but mouth-coating, sandy tannins combine with spicy, mocha coffee oak and pert cherry acidity to give a long, fresh but powerful finish with a bit of gravitas. Should cellar well. Watch the video for more information.

(2023) Second tasting of this in fairly quick succession. 100% high altitude Garnacha made in a combination of concrete tanks, amphorae and 600-litre French oak barrels, blended and aged a further eight months in 225-litre French casks. This expresses a svelte, floral-touched creaminess on the nose. Really quite a pretty red wine, the creamy but subtle oak not masking the buoyant red and black fruit flavours. Nicely balanced, the finish has smooth tannins and a good level of acidity, just a little coffee and spice, and balsamic edge, all showing through, perhaps even a little more chocolaty plushness than on my previous tasting.  

(2023) Another parcel of mature wine that's nine years old, it's Rioja, but made from Graciano, with not a trace of Tempranillo. There is an earthiness and sense of leathery maturity in this sample, a little leafy and cedary character rather than forward fruit. In the mouth it does reveal more black fruit, but still that leathery note and a background of charry oak. Some black cherry fruit and acid comes through as this opens more in the glass. Quite intriguing this, coming good with a bit of air which suggest decanting perhaps.  

(2023) 100% Garnacha, from north-facing vineyards in the Sierra de Yerga. Fermentation was in concrete with a proportion of stems, followed by six months ageing in amphora, 600-litre barrel and concrete before assembling the blend from a further period in 225-litre French oak barriques. Relatively pale-to-medium colour. Smoky, grilled-meat, and savoury, black fruits seem dry and quite serious, the oak sitting gently. Those florals and more herby red fruits do come through. Delightful palate, quite a lot of espresso and chocolate comes through, but there is agility, a fresh, spicy and lemony edge that gives lovely freshness. Long and very fine. Price and stockist quoted at time of review are for the previous vintage.

(2023) Again, 100% high altitude Garnacha like the 2018, made in a combination of concrete tanks, amphorae and 600-litre French oak barrels, blended and aged a further eight months in 225-litre French casks. This expresses a svelte, floral-touched creaminess on the nose. Really quite a pretty red wine, the creamy but subtle oak not masking the buoyant red and black fruit flavours. Nicely balanced, the finish has smooth tannins and a good level of acidity, just a little coffee and spice, and balsamic edge, all showing through.

(2022) Made like a Cru Classe according to Jean-Marc, old vine Tempranillo is over 80 years old, the wine aged 15 months in French oak. Beautiful nose, with Sandalwood and cedar over plush black fruit, masses of ripeness and creaminess, violet and delicious fudge-like notes. The palate carries on that theme, mouth-filling and substantial, yet great juiciness, the lemony juiciness of the acidity cutting through the fruit density, oak and tannins of the finish.

(2022) A blend of mostly Tempranillo with 17% Graciano and 3% Garnacha, aged 14 months in 225-litre barrels (50/50 American and French Oak). Saturated and deep in colour, the nose is a beguiling melange of cedar and Sandalwood with very deep and luscious blue-black berry fruit, plenty of spice and hints of a cherry brightness. The palate shows a similar balance of deep, supple black fruit and those quite exotic spice characters, plenty of savoury oak and acidity extending the finish.

(2021) Some age on the colour here in a classic Rioja from La Rioja Alta, aged for two years in American oak, from new to four-year-old barrels. Sensuous Sandalwood, cedar and vanilla aromas, touched with coconut and with a depth up creamy black fruit. Smooth and elegant on the palate, its all about that creamy black fruit, tobacco spices and the depth of chocolate and vanilla. Long and lovey.

(2020) Very much 'modern' Rioja this, creamy, minty, chocolaty and bold, but putting the ripe black fruits centre stage. Extended ageing in oak (I'd guess mainly French) has smoothed and polished both the flavours and texture, the palate sensuous, sweet and deeply-fruited, firm, but very finely-grained tannins and generous, juicy acidity make it both structured and eminantly drinkable - now or in 10 years. £20 as part of a mixed six bottles.

(2017) From La Rioja Alta's bodega in Alavesa, a fabulous Rioja Reserva that is plush and modern in style, driven by a welterweight of black fruit against creamy, indulgent oak. It is Tempranillo with just 5% Mazuelo, aged in French and Caucasian oak barrels for 18 months. Though Sandalwood and clove, and all sorts of exotic spice join the deep pool of black fruit, there's a firm cherry juiciness to the acidity here, and very fine, elegant tannins that give it lovely length. A supremely refined modern Rioja. Note it's big brother, the Martelo Reserva 2012 is just fabulous, but at almost twice the price. Watch the video for details and food-matching suggestions.