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(2021) Fruit from the cooler-climate valley, San Antonio and the Lo Abarca sub-zone only five kilometres from the ocean. This spends 24 months in oak, 35% new and is very much Syrah rather than Shiraz, on the cool, more herbal, Northen Rhône spectrum with only 12% alcohol. Winemaker Felipe Marin, son of the founder, describes the landscape as 'radical' with management of the vineyards necessary on an almost block by block basis - different soils, aspects and micro-climates. This from a granite block. Very much on the herbal and undergrowth spectrum, there's a hint of cocoa and darker fruit, but that herbal quality of curry leaf and bay is fascinating. There is really notable acidity on the palate - again that granitic crunch - but the svelte, compact fruit and tannins, and the juiciness of the acidity, really is lovely. Striking.
(2016) "The most radical wine in our portfolio," says Felipe. It began as a project with just 10 rows of vines, but the first few years were hit or miss, with some greenness. So they have planted new vineyards in the highest part of the vineyard - this is still young vines - and it clearly must be picked early with only 12% alcohol. 16 months in barrels with spontaneous fermentation and only gentle extraction. A touch funky and a touch reduced. Felipe thinks it is still too young. Fine charcoal and peppery notes do come through, with a touch of leather and bacon fat, a touch of cedar/graphite and certainly a nose full of aromas. The palate has lots of dry, earthy, dry red fruit character, refined and savoury with good length. Available only by the half case.
(2016) Fourteen months in French oak, 20% new, from chalk soils. A meatiness and obvious wild yeast earthiness here, and just a touch of reduction again. The fruit comes through very sweetly on the palate, still meaty and warmly earthy, but a touch of vanilla and fine tannins, some fat but lovely acid clarity. Stops just short of being a bit to heavy and full for my Pinot Noir tastes. Price is per bottle, but available only by the half case.
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