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(2023) The blend at this time was 80% Sangiovese along with 10% each of Pugnitello and Colorino, from 1970s vineyards. Softening brick on the rim, a mellow wine, with bloody and tobacco notes, a subtle truffle character with its age. Such sweet fruit on the palate: an almost strawberry or ripe red plum juiciness and fruit richness, some chocolate notes into a mellow but still vital finish, smooth tannins and gentle acidity balanced perfectly. At this stage might still benefit from decanting just to allow it to open slightly.
(2023) I believe the 2015 was 100% Sangiovese, but given a very similar winemaking treatment to the 2018, with 20 months in 500-litre French oak barrels and extended time in bottle before release. It's loaded with tobacco and spicy aromas over black fruit - cherries, but blackcurranty depth too. In the mouth lots of cherry depth over swirling smoky notes. Tannins are big and very drying, so I think these needs to be decanted or preferably given more time. Acid balance is excellent. A substantial wine for sure.
(2023) This is around 80% Sangiovese, the remainder being other local varieties including Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. Brooding, dark, combining black cherry and liquorice aromas, but there's intensity here, moving into plum and blueberry. This is drinking superbly a decade on since harvest, and while there is plenty of bittersweetness to the fruit, tannin and acid, the core has a dry but definite fruit ripeness and richness. It stays linear and focused. I would be drinking this now, though the axis of tannin and acid may well propel it further. No Uk stockists for this vintage at time of review.
(2023) This was fermented in stainless steel, a selection of the best grapes, sorted in the vineyard and again at the winery. At this time the blend was 80% Sangiovese with Pugnitello and Colorino. It was aged 24 months in 500-litre French oak. Deeply coloured, there's a real sense of classicism here: the fruit is vinous with plum and cherry, deep and smoothly concentrated over plush oak. The palate has gorgeous, chocolate-like fruit creaminess, depth and smoothness. There's lots of espresso here, presumably higher toast oak adding a little of that, but it gives lovely texture and depth after 13 years. The wine feels resolved, but no rush to drink. No UK stockists for this vintage at time of review.
(2023) A single vineyard, Sangiovese Riserva blended with some Colorino and Pugnitello, from limestone soils. Again a very darkly-hued wine, and this is the only one of the wines here that feels fully mature. There's some gamy tertiarty aroma, spices and a woodsmoke character, the fruit still there but not singing as clearly as in the 2010 Il Grigio for example. In the mouth this does still have balance thanks to the fruit feeling a little more solid, though it is fairly quickly clamped down by sandy tannins and bitter cherry acidity. The wine resolves into fruit and coffee in the finish, so perhaps this will have more longevity than I first thought it might.
(2021) In 2013 the blend was slightly dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with 36%, then 32% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 12% Petit Verdot, and it was a late harvest with a cool spring and autumn delaying growth. It is eight years younger than the 2005 of course, but seems to be a of much firmer character generally (possibly because of the upped Cabernet content), with firm black fruit on the nose and a savoury, liquorice bite to the acidity and fruit on the palate, tart berry skins giving grip and energy, a fine, long and flowing finish, though that slightly more austere edge is always there.
(2021) What a terrific Brunello, from a four hectare vineyard and raised in oak barrels of 500 to 700-litres, for 30 months. There's a little softness around the rim to the solid colour, and such a wonderfully spicy, vanilla-laden nose, with a touch of pencil-shaving finesse to very ripe, generous fruit. In the mouth huge fruit sweetness, but that is tempered by a touch of meaty, clove-like and incense character, the silky tannins and pert cherry skins acidity adding grip without weight, the purity of the fruit and hints of tobacco and more exotic spice running to the finish. £35.99 as part of a mixed six.
(2021) Cadman describe this as 'quintessential Chianti Classico Riserva,' and I could not argue with that: the Imberti family have invested heavily and replanted solely with Sangiovese in the 1990s, and the rewards are apparent. 100% Sangiovese, it spent two years in oak, and the nose shows a sonorous, smooth, deep pool of black fruit edged with Sandalwood spices and a little bloody, gamy character rich with tobacco. Sweet, sweet and plush black fruit positevly caresses the palate, that elegance of violet and chocolate book-ending the fruit, silky tannins and poised, graceful acidity. Terrific stuff.
(2020) From the vineyards that surround the Poggio alle Mura castle, this spent two years in French oak, plus a further three in bottle. It has a deep red colour, but a little paleness on the rim, then a deep and quite curranty aroma, some volatile lift, and cherry fruit beneath. In the mouth it is smooth and sweetly-fruited, there is liquorice, and again that intense raisined quality. Taut and juicy, the finish has a purity, with oak subsumed by the sweet fruit and elegance of the tannins and acidity.
(2020) Named after the colour of the evening sky above the estate (indigo), this is a blend of equal parts Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, fermented with indigenous yeasts and spending 18 months in French oak barrels, 35% of which were new. It has a deep, saturated and vibrant colour. The nose is really very appealing, with incense and Sandalwood, a deep seam of blueberry and blackcurrant, and a touch of meatiness. In the mouth a surge of sweet, ripe, fleshy damson plum and blueberry bittersweet fruit, the oak just adding a chocolate and coffee sheen, but it is in the background, the polished, plush fruit pushing through against creamy tannins and balanced acidity. A terrific Bordeaux-style wine this, with an agile Itilianate acidity, and drinking beautifully now though worthy of cellaring for a decade or more. Price and stockists quoted at time of review are for the previous vintage.
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