(2019) Gravner's only red variety, Pignolo, fermented in big, open barrels with wild yeasts and no temperature control, followed by 10 more years ageing in big barrels and bottle. Quite a lot of colour, fine smoky edge, with a lick of volatility, intense cherry. On the palate bloody and raw, a game edge and dry but sweet reducrrant blackberry, an olive grip of sourness and acidity, the tannins ever present, and a long spicy finish.

(2019) Same winemaking as for the 2005 (from 2006 fermentation and ageing switched to amphora), fermented in open barrels with 10 years in large barrels and bottle before release. Drier and less open than the 2005 at this stage, a very dry, bloody and lightly iron oxide character - not oxidised, but that ferrous edge. Again, less openly giving, but deep in there are balsamic strawberries and herb and floral nuances, and all the hallmarks that this will be terrific with time, when the score might notch up a point or two.

(2019) The Pinot Noir was sourced from six small plots chosen for their different characters and ripeness. Partly whole-bunch fermented, only using indigenous yeasts, the wine was matured in second- and third-fill French oak barriques for 18 months. What a lovely nose, deep spicy, earthy and smoky, but suffused with red fruits, savoury plum and wild flowers and herbs. A lovely stripe of tannin adds firmness on the palate, but it stays creamy and beautifully balanced with its cherry ripeness of fruit, smokiness and fine acidity. 1088 bottles produced.