(2020) From 30-year-old vines grown on silty soils over chalk, this wine matures on the lees for several months. That adds some weight and texture to this otherwise crisp and zingy-fresh Riesling, pale in colour and offering scents of fresh-cut apple, a touch of blossom, and a suggestion of Epsom salts in the background. In the mouth it has some weight and concentration, but the citrus zest vitality and delicate sense of minerals in the finish keep it focused and long into the finish. A lovely rendition of a classic style.
(2020) Muscat d’Alsace may not be the most famous variety of the region, but it is distinctive and in the hands of a producer like Baur, makes for fascinating and delicious drinking. Very pale in colour, the nose offers up thos musky, floral aromas so typical of the Muscat family of grape varieties, but there's a hint of a more serious, grippy fruit skin character too. In the mouth the merest hint of sweetness in a basiclly dry wine, but such lovely tang and clarity, mouth-watering lemon zest acidity and little spice and grapefruit pith notes too in an impeccably balanced wine.
(2017) Very fine nose, fine Gewurztraminer character, spicy and smoky, lots of residual sugar to give a delicate but exotic fruitiness that has intensity and yet filigree lacy acid framework. 17g/l makes it off-dry and a great match for Thai food or very ripe tomatoes with good olive oil, or simple pizza.
(2017) So ripe and generous, rich and almost strawberry-scented, that nice tropical character but then the delicate smokiness and the very firm edge of acidity, meaning the 9g/l of sugar just disappears into the finish.
(2017) Powerful smoky minerality and a touch of nettle, and there is a pungent, almost passion fruit note. A very expressive Riesling, the vintage showing through beautifully. On the palate there is a searing dry core of acidity and that dry apple core seriousness. Lovely juicy orange tang of acidity. Should cellar well.
(2017) With only 5g/l of residual sugar this is essentially dry, with delightfully delicate Muscat aromatics, fresh grapy and perfumed, and a certain mango and grapefruit skin richness on the palate. Long finish, very well balanced by the acidity and a certain mineral element.
(2017) The Cave Cooperative at Ribeauville is first class, and this series of organic wines are among their best (there's a terrific Riesling in the same range). However the sometimes unexciting Pinot Blanc can sing in Alsace and it does here, soft floral and lightly waxy aromatics, a touch of almond and vanilla, but then pristine fruit on the palate. It is juicy, lemony, but textured with a rolling apple fruit sliced through by its acidity.
(2012) Subtle smoky and nutty aromatics, the Nivea cream perfume building behind. Fat, creamy and richly off-dry on the palate, this has delicious flavour and a flood of lychee and sweet glacé fruit, with good acidity, but definitely in need of lighter fruity desserts or perhaps spicy Szechuan food for ultimate pleasure.
(2012) At five years of age this has taken on a little colour, and a lovely hint of mineral, paraffin-wax development beneath pristine apple fruit. It's an un-showy style aromatically, and that discreet character continues on the palate: make no mistake, this has delicious concentration and a grip of grapefruit flavour and acidity, but it has restraint too. The mid-palate allows the waxy, full texture to coat the mouth, whilst those ripe but razor sharp apple and citrus flavours betray only the most tantalising glimpse of tangerine and lime, and more opulent character. A bracing, firm finish makes this a fairly intellectual and yet delicious, bone-dry style.
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