(2024) Sourced from Hugel's vineyards around Riquewihr which are in the process of being certified for organic viticulture. Gorgeous nose of waxy preserved lemons, gently exotic, ripe apples and the most delicate touch of saffron spice. The palate has sweetness, but that's purely the ripe fruit, underscored by a sour lemon and grapefruit acidity that cleanses the palate. Medium-bodied but fruit-filled on the mid-palate, the finish is long and perfectly balanced.

(2023) From the granitic and sandstone terroir of Kaefferkopf, 5g/l of residual sugar just soften this wine that opens with a nice mineral character of wax and stones, a hint of custard apple. That sweetness is perceptible, but a rounded, creamy weight of stone fruits and then nicely judged acidity makes for very pleasing balance.

(2017) Powerful smoky minerality and a touch of nettle, and there is a pungent, almost passion fruit note. A very expressive Riesling, the vintage showing through beautifully. On the palate there is a searing dry core of acidity and that dry apple core seriousness. Lovely juicy orange tang of acidity. Should cellar well.

(2017) The Cave Cooperative at Ribeauville is first class, and this series of organic wines are among their best (there's a terrific Riesling in the same range). However the sometimes unexciting Pinot Blanc can sing in Alsace and it does here, soft floral and lightly waxy aromatics, a touch of almond and vanilla, but then pristine fruit on the palate. It is juicy, lemony, but textured with a rolling apple fruit sliced through by its acidity.

(2012) At five years of age this has taken on a little colour, and a lovely hint of mineral, paraffin-wax development beneath pristine apple fruit. It's an un-showy style aromatically, and that discreet character continues on the palate: make no mistake, this has delicious concentration and a grip of grapefruit flavour and acidity, but it has restraint too. The mid-palate allows the waxy, full texture to coat the mouth, whilst those ripe but razor sharp apple and citrus flavours betray only the most tantalising glimpse of tangerine and lime, and more opulent character. A bracing, firm finish makes this a fairly intellectual and yet delicious, bone-dry style.