(2022) Grand Cru Alsace Riesling, which spent 11 months on fine lees, this has a really appealing nose: great fruit purity, a little note of waxines to ripe apple and pear. There's a minerality about this too. In the mouth it is dry and decisive, quite a weighty wine, that lees-ageing adding nutty textural dryness, but the glistening purity and ripeness of the fruit is what drives the finish along with pithy lemon acid clarity.
(2022) Cathy Faller is in charge of winemaking at this famously female-led house in Alsace, Cathy, her sister and mother having taken over when their father Théo died in 1979. Farming organically, they use only estate fruit from vineyards that include top Grand Crus. This is a discreet and yet powerful wine, the nose showing yellow plum and a little confit lemon, even a touch of butteriness before the palate opens just enough to show an expansive sweet fruit profile (with a little residual sugar). It has a limpid texture and a finish where the acid gently insists rather than dominating.
(2017) First vintage of this wine made in the new cellars, and from vineyards in conversion to biodynamic certification. Schlossberg is the biggest Grand Cru of Alsace, and this comes from the Kirrenbourg parcel within it. So taut and steely with that firm, concentrated power of both fruit and acidity, fabulous drive and purpose. Thrilling Riesling.
(2017) From limestone soils, in conversion to biodynamic certification, this has 3.5g/l sugar. Deeper colour than the Schlossberg also tasted, beautiful aromatics, demonstrative, with a richness and ripeness, again plenty of bold, bright orange fruit. Not at all flabby, but a certain broadness compared to the Schlossberg’s tension and drive.
(2012) The 2008 vintage of the Clos-Saint-Urbain slipped in for comparison has more developed honey on the nose with delicious richness and ripeness, with the mouth-watering juiciness. Absolutely delicious. Grapefruit and tangerine, but also a broad, nectarine-skins and ripe pear fruit depth.
(2012) Ripe, elegant lightly smoky nose, with touches of oatmeal richness and a broader, ripe apple and even lightly toffee fruit. The palate has a hint of residual sugar, with a much broader, fleshier mid-palate than the Rieslings, but that scything acidity sweeps through, filling the mouth with minerals and citrus and a real spiciness too. Long, lip-smacking stuff.
(2012) Very open, generous nose, honeysuckle and honey, white fruits and very juicy melon, again that oatmeal richness. Off-dry, the rich, silky texture and the pure, ripe fruit filling the mouth, the pithy nature of the citrusy finish keeping it fresh. More direct that the Rotenberg, though not quite so seriously pitched for me.
(2012) Lovely richness and depth with lots of honey here and lots of ripe apricotty depth. Some floral notes too. Fabulous minerality. The searing core of grapefruit and lemon pith minerality really streaking through. Extremely young and tight, but what balance and what shimmering structure.
(2012) Broader, seems fleshier than the Brand, with tiny nuances of flinty and petrolly minerality, but only glimpses. The palate has a broad, juicy but rich character, with a broadening palate of juicy, peach-ripe fruit. But this is constrained by that wonderful mineral acidity. Long, tight, very young.