(2022) The dry white wine of the famous Sauternes estate of Suduiraut is composed of 52% Semillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc from 20-year-old vines, the wine matured in barrels, 25% of which were new. There's a nutty layer of smoothing, barrel-derived aroma over lemony and punchy citrus fruit. In the mouth this has a tempered, rather imperious character, the cool fruit taut and concentrated, its time in barrel just easing the edges, and a core of lean lemony acidity just allowing glimpses - only glimpses - of something more exotic, like guava and lychee, just waiting in the wings. An interesting and layered wine this, that might well blossom more fully with a year or two in bottle.  

(2021) Like the other wines of Suduiraut, the Blanc Sec comes from all estate fruit, predominently Semillon at 52%, with 48% Sauvignon Blanc, like the 2020, 25% was aged in barrels, 23% new. Very pale green/straw in colour, it's an elegant and composed wine, taut with lemon and minerals to the fore, a little leafiness and almost Chablis-like river stones. In the mouth a little more of the Sauvignon vivaciousness comes through, a burst of more nectarine like fruit, but always restrained by classic acidity, the finish long and bone-dry. Perhaps slightly less vivacious than the 2020, but makes up for that in sheerness and intensity. Around £17.50 by the case.

(2020) I'm very fond of white wines from the Pessac-Léognan in the Graves region of Bordeaux, this lightly barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc coming from one of André Lurton's properties. The nose is citrussy and fresh, the merest nuance of an elderflower touch, and the oak very much in the background, just adding a delicate creaminess. On the palate there's a full texture and it offers a fairly straightforward and pure core of citrus and apple fruit, good tangy acidity and a certain poise and succulence into the finish.

(2019) Classic white Bordeaux from the Pessac-Léognan Cru of Graves, this is Sauvignon Blanc, fermented and aged in barrel. From a very good year - the third warmest since 1900 - with above-average monthly temperatures. The oak is very discreet, giving just a sheen of almond nuttiness to the cool orchard fruit and lemon, a little hint of something like soft, leafy herbs in the background. In the mouth pure and sweet fruit drives this, quite a full texture, a lemon and mint freshness, and tapers to a fine point in the finish. It is a discreet, elegant and understated style with nothing too showy, but beautifully done. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.

(2017) I see from my database that I have notes for the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages of this wine from Clarence Dillon Wines, making it part of the Haut-Brion family stable, so interesting to taste this latest release. It's a typical white Bordeaux blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, the nose clear and brightly focused, with citrus and a touch of riper red apple, maybe even peach, and a light mealiness. Medium bodied, this has a grapefruit and lemon grip, a bit of real steel at the core, draped with taut fruit, the slight chalkiness of the acids giving lovely gastronomic potential.