(2021) From a domaine established in 2005 by brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet, this is a pretty fabulous Bourgogne Blanc by any measure, beautifully oaked and sharp as a tack with only 12.5% alcohol. There's a gently nutty creaminess to the aroma, sesame seeds and something sea-salty and river stone-fresh. Tempered white fruits - melon, pear and a citrus thrust - but that nutty and textured creaminess balances and supports beautifully. Terrific minor Burgundy of great class.
(2021) This a monopole vineyard is on a north-east facing slope of clay over limestone, planted 40 years ago. It does not see any oak. Pale green-gold, the aromas are crisp and stoney-mineral flecked, some creamy yeastiness, and just a suggestion of peachy ripeness to the fruit. The palate has a pithy streak of lemon and underripe apple that is dry and succulent, but there's a prettiness to this to offset the nervous acid thrust.
(2020) From the southerly appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, it was intriguing to taste this alongside the Chardonnay from Chateau Souverin and consider the relative styles: whilst the Californian wine is model of restraint, it seems positively flamboyant compared to this Burgundy, which leads on taut stone fruit and minerality, seemingly untouched by oak, before a dry, apple and lemon palate with just a hint of fruit sweetness and creaminess, before a long, precise finish.
(2018) This large nêgociant and estate owner makes some very good Burgundy wines, including Chablis under the Albert Bichot and Long-Depaquit labels. Cool, clean, clear and restrained, the aromas here are of lightly creamy apple and citrus, not a lot of Chablis flint in evidence. On the palate it is elegant and understated stuff, a fine, intelligent Chardonnay, but not singing of Chablis terroir.
(2017) A beautiful white Burgundy that's perfect for Christmas from Louis Latour. The vines are grown on limestone and clay soils and are 30 years old on average, and one would swear this has seen a touch of oak given the creamy, almond and lightly buttery notes of the nose, but it has not. As well as that, there is ripe orchard fruit and a lovely sense of both richness and clarity. In the mouth the ripe, mouth-filling texture and sweetness is delicious, but that's because the core of mineral-flecked citrus acidity runs like a spine too, into a long, creamy finish. £19.99 as part of a mixed six from Majestic. Watch the video for details and food-matching ideas.
(2017) A very pleasing hint of mineraly, flinty character to this, but more apple fruit really floods the nose, the lick of mineral salts a really pleasing adjunct. In the mouth good texture, the salinity definitely there and giving proper Chablis character, some nuttiness and loads of apple fruit before a long, zest citrus finish. Lovely example.
(2016) From Latour's 1er Cru vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise, this has a pale lemon/straw colour and crisply-defined, lightly leesy aromas with dry apple fruit. Understated white Burgundy, it reveals a little nuttiness and loads of biting lemon fruit and acidity, a lick of salt too, in a nervy, delcicious but linear wine.
(2016) A year older than the Montagny 1er Cru also tasted, but a different style too, this richer and more buttery, with a sheen of creamy oak over riper fruit. In the mouth that nuttiness and Cox's pippin character give more weight and there is more texture, the extra ounce of ripeness nicely offset by some grip and keen acid in the finish. Delicious.
(2016) Aged 18 months on the lees in tank. Delicious juiciness, a touch of herbs and a touch of spangle brightness, but plenty of fresh zest acidity and cool apple. A lovely drinkable wine with real salty lick not often found in Petit Chablis.