(2022) Lugny is in the most southerly part of the Mâconnais, with vineyards at 235-380m on limestone soils. 100% Chardonnay, made without oak. There's a hint of flint and wet river stones to this, the fruit between nutty apple and lime. In the mouth it's sharply defined by pithy lemon acidity, running through a slightly broader apple mid-palate.
(2022) With vines close to Meursault and Puligny, this is Aligoté from a family vineyard. Fresh, pear and citrus aromas show a little floral aspect. In the mouth quite textured and weighty, there's a light golden and honeyed character to this with plenty of ripe and sweet fruit, but a streaking core of lemon acidity sharpens the whole picture.
(2022) From Burgundy's unique Sauvignon Blanc appellation, where the vineyards are in the environs of Chablis, no oak here, but lees ageing for six months. Grassy elderflower aromatics, a burgeoning tropicality beneath - a touch of fig and mango - and a little hint of flintiness too, the palate showing a depth of graperuit and gentler peach, with plenty of concentration into the finish that again shows a hint of mineral flintiness.
(2022) Fermented in steel, but aged only in older barrels, this has an attractive nose, subtle hints of herbs and spices, a background of crushed oatmeal, and delicate stone fruit and lemon aromas. In the mouth a poised and elegant Burgundy, with plenty of sweet ripeness to the fruit, and a very solid core of lemon and lime acidity that has a certain fat. A little nutty weight from the barrels rounds out the medium-length, spicy finish.
(2022) Clémence Dubrulle is winemaker here, taking over her family’s Domaine in 2010. Giles Burke-Gaffney, buyer for Justerini and Brooke, says that having moved home from Paris she effectively rescued the estate after it had fallen on hard times. This wine comes from a monopole vineyard on clay and limestone. Vines are 40 years old, and the wine was made in stainless steel, with no oak. Pale yellow in colour, the nose if fairly muted, a little yellow apple and a hint of citrus. In the mouth the texture is creamy and the fruit ripeness comes through. There's a little grip to this food wine, that shows plenty of acid structure into the finish.
(2021) From a domaine established in 2005 by brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet, this is a pretty fabulous Bourgogne Blanc by any measure, beautifully oaked and sharp as a tack with only 12.5% alcohol. There's a gently nutty creaminess to the aroma, sesame seeds and something sea-salty and river stone-fresh. Tempered white fruits - melon, pear and a citrus thrust - but that nutty and textured creaminess balances and supports beautifully. Terrific minor Burgundy of great class.
(2021) This a monopole vineyard is on a north-east facing slope of clay over limestone, planted 40 years ago. It does not see any oak. Pale green-gold, the aromas are crisp and stoney-mineral flecked, some creamy yeastiness, and just a suggestion of peachy ripeness to the fruit. The palate has a pithy streak of lemon and underripe apple that is dry and succulent, but there's a prettiness to this to offset the nervous acid thrust.
(2020) From the southerly appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, it was intriguing to taste this alongside the Chardonnay from Chateau Souverin and consider the relative styles: whilst the Californian wine is model of restraint, it seems positively flamboyant compared to this Burgundy, which leads on taut stone fruit and minerality, seemingly untouched by oak, before a dry, apple and lemon palate with just a hint of fruit sweetness and creaminess, before a long, precise finish.
(2018) This large nêgociant and estate owner makes some very good Burgundy wines, including Chablis under the Albert Bichot and Long-Depaquit labels. Cool, clean, clear and restrained, the aromas here are of lightly creamy apple and citrus, not a lot of Chablis flint in evidence. On the palate it is elegant and understated stuff, a fine, intelligent Chardonnay, but not singing of Chablis terroir.
(2017) A beautiful white Burgundy that's perfect for Christmas from Louis Latour. The vines are grown on limestone and clay soils and are 30 years old on average, and one would swear this has seen a touch of oak given the creamy, almond and lightly buttery notes of the nose, but it has not. As well as that, there is ripe orchard fruit and a lovely sense of both richness and clarity. In the mouth the ripe, mouth-filling texture and sweetness is delicious, but that's because the core of mineral-flecked citrus acidity runs like a spine too, into a long, creamy finish. £19.99 as part of a mixed six from Majestic. Watch the video for details and food-matching ideas.