(2023) Yes, you read that right: a 13-year-old Premier Cru Chablis from one of the top domaines, which has recently been released. The nose has a subtle greengage and citrus character, and an also subtle but undeniable hint of flintiness in the background. In the mouth it really is lovely, defying its decade plus of age with pristine fruit and finely etched acidity. Still feeling quite youthful, but with the weight and hint of honeyed maturity. £37.00 as part of a mixed dozen.
(2022) From the marly-clay and limestone soils of this vineyard above the village of Santenay. The wine was whole-cluster pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in barrel before aging on fine lees for 16 months (20% new barrels). It has a seriously attractive nose, the almond and crushed oatmeal sheen of high quality oak over taut, lemony and lightly herb-touched fruit. In the mouth it is cool and clear, a running-water clarity to the acidity with touch of salty minerals and citrus, but there is that light toastiness and hint of more ripe stone fruit on the mid-palate. A delightful white Burgundy.
(2022) Sourced from vineyards across the Chablis region, and made in stainless steel without oak influence. This s a very juicy style of Chablis, plenty of lemon peel and ripe apple fruitiness, small hints of herbs and flowers adding charm. It's rounded and relatively creamy for Chablis on the palate, but a zinging burst of lemon and lime acidity and hint of salts braces the quite long finish.
(2021) A terrifically peachy, nectarine scented wine, touched lightly by oatmeal and almond, but ripe and verging on the tropical. The palate too has a surge of juicy, pulpy nectarine and mango, luscious and mouth-watering, then orange acidity cuts through the sweetness, a nice weight and texture creamy into the finish, which is tangy and juicy, but still highlighting that deliciously ripe fruit. This might be too 'New World' in style for some purists, but what a lovely wine.
(2020) White Côte de Nuits Villages is relatively rare, and indeed only two barrels of this fine Chardonnay sourced from vineyards in Fixin. Fermented in wooden foudres and aged one year in barrique, it has a Brazil nut opulence on the nose, quite Meursault-like, buttery, the palate brimming with ripe fruit, succulent pear and Ogen melon, very juicy, and a beautifully balanced white Burgundy with texture and charm to spare, but the cleansing acidity is framing everything very elegantly. £24.50 as part of a mixed six.
(2020) What a delightful nose on this village Puligny, vinified and matured in oak barrels for 14 months. There is oak, but it is fragrant and creamy, floral edges and hint so exotic spices rather than anything too obvious, with a gossamer fruit quality beneath; floral-edged stone fruits and crisp pear. In the mouth, nuttiness and Cox's pippin apples, very good acidity in a fine lime and mineral line that runs through the buttery ripeness and oak toastiness into the finish. Mixed six price is £44.99
(2017) Despite hailstorms just around harvest time affecting some producers, 2015 seems to have been a very good vintage for Chablis following an excellent 2014. This has some classic flint and green-flecked, mineral notes, with a ripe, smooth orchard fruit quality beneath. On the palate that searingly dry mineral and lemon pith core drives through, but there's a hint of fat about the texture of this too, and the fruit, which is quite juicy and almost peachy, before the strict core of acidity reasserts.
(2016) This vintage has no UK stockists listed, though the 2013 tasted recently is available and scored 91 points. This retains a touch of green to the colour and has a gorgeous nose, suffused with a little crushed almond and oatmeal, a ripe but crisp apple fruitiness and hint of salty minerality. The palate too has a fine marriage of lean, citrus and salt-streaked clarity allied to gentle nuttiness and fine orchard fruit. A delightful white Burgundy.
(2016) Rich, the last vintage to be 100% oaked, it has an oatmeal richness and some hints of peach and honey to the tight apple core of fruit. Small nutty and wheatgerm notes. The palate is richly oaked but not overdone, again a weight and persistence of that pithy lemon fruit core. Lovely.
(2016) Blanchot has less clay and more Kimmeridgean than Le Clos, and a little more east facing too. Same winemaking with 50/50 tank and barrel. There’s a deal of creamy oak noticeable on this, gently toasty and mealy, but the aromas beneath are fine – extraordinary note of mint and basil and subtle with white fruits. The palate is dry and chalky, with racy acidity and that keen, intelligent, beautifully composed balance of fruit, acid and the chalk and minerals of Blanchot. Gorgeous harmony again, and beautifully done. Please note: stockist and price quoted at time of writing is for the 2010 vintage.
