(2020) White Côte de Nuits Villages is relatively rare, and indeed only two barrels of this fine Chardonnay sourced from vineyards in Fixin. Fermented in wooden foudres and aged one year in barrique, it has a Brazil nut opulence on the nose, quite Meursault-like, buttery, the palate brimming with ripe fruit, succulent pear and Ogen melon, very juicy, and a beautifully balanced white Burgundy with texture and charm to spare, but the cleansing acidity is framing everything very elegantly. £24.50 as part of a mixed six.
(2020) What a delightful nose on this village Puligny, vinified and matured in oak barrels for 14 months. There is oak, but it is fragrant and creamy, floral edges and hint so exotic spices rather than anything too obvious, with a gossamer fruit quality beneath; floral-edged stone fruits and crisp pear. In the mouth, nuttiness and Cox's pippin apples, very good acidity in a fine lime and mineral line that runs through the buttery ripeness and oak toastiness into the finish. Mixed six price is £44.99
(2017) Despite hailstorms just around harvest time affecting some producers, 2015 seems to have been a very good vintage for Chablis following an excellent 2014. This has some classic flint and green-flecked, mineral notes, with a ripe, smooth orchard fruit quality beneath. On the palate that searingly dry mineral and lemon pith core drives through, but there's a hint of fat about the texture of this too, and the fruit, which is quite juicy and almost peachy, before the strict core of acidity reasserts.
(2016) This vintage has no UK stockists listed, though the 2013 tasted recently is available and scored 91 points. This retains a touch of green to the colour and has a gorgeous nose, suffused with a little crushed almond and oatmeal, a ripe but crisp apple fruitiness and hint of salty minerality. The palate too has a fine marriage of lean, citrus and salt-streaked clarity allied to gentle nuttiness and fine orchard fruit. A delightful white Burgundy.
(2016) Rich, the last vintage to be 100% oaked, it has an oatmeal richness and some hints of peach and honey to the tight apple core of fruit. Small nutty and wheatgerm notes. The palate is richly oaked but not overdone, again a weight and persistence of that pithy lemon fruit core. Lovely.
(2016) Blanchot has less clay and more Kimmeridgean than Le Clos, and a little more east facing too. Same winemaking with 50/50 tank and barrel. There’s a deal of creamy oak noticeable on this, gently toasty and mealy, but the aromas beneath are fine – extraordinary note of mint and basil and subtle with white fruits. The palate is dry and chalky, with racy acidity and that keen, intelligent, beautifully composed balance of fruit, acid and the chalk and minerals of Blanchot. Gorgeous harmony again, and beautifully done. Please note: stockist and price quoted at time of writing is for the 2010 vintage.
(2016) Full bunch pressing, then 50/50 between tank and second year barrels. Aged for two years. Delicious hint of vanilla, of almond and oatmeal, but a fine purity of custard apples and citrus. Plenty of concentrated, pure spice-touched fruit, apples and pastry, but a lovely salty definition, the length and precision matched by natural density. Long and persistent finish. Yield for the Grands Crus is around 45hl/ha, as opposed to 55hl/ha for 1er Cru and 60hl/ha for Chablis.
(2016) Two years in older barrels for part of this blend. Taut core of salty, earthy and gently vegetal aromatics with a hint of truffle and mushroom, and delicious lime ripeness. The palate is deliciously salty and yet ripe and nectarine sweet. So much bitter lemon and Seville orange bite, that fabulous salt.
(2016) 30% into barrels for fermentation and ageing for 18 months. Leesy, creamy, gently toasty and honeyed, a fine almost Meursault-like quality, with bold orchard fruit, touches of green fig, and background nuttiness. The palate has great pace and elan, the salts, the chalky dryness of the acidity is set against the nutty oak and really quite bold fruits. Lots of layers here, but stays particulary fresh It’s one for the future.
(2016) Fine nose, flinty, some seashell touches, a hint of oak (vanilla and a little smokiness) and clean, pure orchard fruits. The palate has really concentrated and intense fruit, lots of fruit sweetness crowding the mid palate, then salt drives through, seasoning and lifting the wine, the fine juicy character has so much bracing acidity and a long, concentrated finish.
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