(2021) There is no more than 25% new oak in this Grand Cru, and Emmanuel says he wants to avoid too much oaky influence. He also suggest that it will be at its peak in five years or so, but will cellar for twenty years minimum. It comes mainly from the En Charlemagne lieu-dit, and though very tight and young, some cedar and flint, and only a light vanilla creaminess comes through, golden apple and citrus is fresh and focused. In the mouth it becomes even more apparent that five years will benefit this wine: it has terrific, elegant concentration, no flabbiness, but there is sweet and ripe fruit weight on the mid-palate before a long, mineral-flecked core of citrus acidity running to the finish. A little creamy texture and flavour from the barrel, but this is all about fruit intensity and tensioning acidity at this stage.
(2021) Light gold/green in colour, the nose is immediately Meursault, and immediately appealing: a touch of Brazil nut creaminess, some confit lemon, buttery with a touch of apricot, some small floral nuances. On the palate there is an unctuous sense of richness to both flavour and texture, really sweet and ripe, touching on peach, even mango, but reeled-in by its ripe but decisive lime and creamy, fat lemon and orange acidity. It's a confident, fairly big-scaled Meursault, where a light smokiness, spice and vanilla rounds off all of the edges in a long, balanced and delicious wine. Sixteen months in oak for this, 25% new, and fermentation with wild yeasts lasted five months.
(2021) The only white wine tasted here, though the domaine also produces a Chevalier-Montrachet, the 'Cailleret' name of this Premier Cru comes from the high pebble presence in the vineyard, planted in 1976 and purchased from the Chartron family in 2004. Benoit explains that historiclly it was regarded as a 'Grand Cru', but some historical local politics meant it enjoys the Premier Cru designation. There's a gorgeous lemon-butter shortbread richness on the nose, but that does not dominate: a steely, stony citrus takes the honours. In the mouth a great thrust of lemon again and a really intriguing orange note to the acidity, almost like the bite of a Negroni, shimmering with energy into the long finish. A delicious bitter-sweet and long finish to the wine.
(2016) What an interesting wine at almost 20 years old, so much developed wax and petrol, a toastiness, fabulous mineral length but with biscuit richness coming through, tiny honey and pollen notes but still terrific acidity.
(2016) Has that asparagus vegetal streak, but also lots of hot stones and gentle flint. There is spice here too, in a wine that is tightly furled but hugely layered and complex. On the palate it is all citrus acidity and fruit at the moment, the acid lifting and extending the finish, fabulous intensity and minerality. The juice and clarity is superb - needs plenty of time.
(2016) For the first time the oak is noticeable here, adding a layer of vanilla and of nuttiness to hugely fresh, streaking green fruit. Lift and power of the flint is there, but under the fruit. Great concentration.
(2016) Beautiful nose, only the merest hint of delicious and natural oxidation, giving lovely nuttiness and sweetness. The palate is superbly sweet and it has real mineral freshness. The cool vintage gives this seriously nice edge and mineral definition into a long finish.
(2016) A very late vintage, harvested in October. Big, powerful Jack Daniels nose, plenty of depth of aroma, a little coconut and some charming little floral notes emerging. Lots of layered subtle complexity here. The palate has delicious sweetness of fruit, hints of the exotic, but a fine, pure palate with beautiful balance.
(2016) Gorgeous fresh but nutty refinement, with such lovely hazelnut and orange notes, citrus skins and some salts. Beautifully fruity palate with delicious sweetness allied to piercing freshness of the acidity, but the toast and power of the structure and fruit depth power through. Considerable cellaring potential.
(2016) Wears the oak very lightly, a gentle custard and almond background, some complex sulphide reduction that suggests long life, but really focused on the tight, fresh orchard fruits. The palate is limpid and pure, another fine Corton with slippery texture and the fresh juice of lemons and limes, and a hint of fat, of peach in the mid palate before a long and very fresh finish.
