(2022) Very nicely pitched, succulent Chardonnay with a sheen of almondy oak and juicy pear and apple, a hint of lime. In the mouth there's plenty of inherent sweetness to the fruit that is broad and mouth-filling, but it is tangy too, shap apple and citrus adding refreshing clarity, the lightly toasty nougat-like oak sitting nicely in the picture. Stylish.

(2014) This wine takes its name from the Spanish word for 'steel', reflecting the fact that it is an unoaked cuvée. Fruit is said to be carefully selected for its flavour and aroma intensity and as with all of the wines comes from the Don Miguel vineyard (where Marimar Torres first planted Chardonnay in 1986). Pouring with a pale green colour, the wine is indeed explosively fragrant, with an exotic bloom to orange and lemon, and a green herb and mineral intensity. It is very brightly focused, with a piercing suggestion of freshness. In the mouth there's an almost Sauvignon Blanc-like vibrancy, that vivacious fruity punch marrying to pithy grapefruit citrus and a shimmering, salt-licked acid finish. Singular stuff.