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(2021) What a beautifully perfumed wine made from Voisinho and Gouveio, lots of floral character, lots of downy peach skins and mint, a hint of citrus peel. The palate has a streaking freshness of salty minerality and lemon zest, but there is charm too, a mid-palate peachiness, but then the citrus and salts absolutely powers through the finish, the oak perhaps adding a little roundness, but surprisingly fresh. Vinified in 225-litre oak barrels, 30% new oak, the head pieces made from Acacia rather than oak to lower the oak character. Christian is experimenting with 500-litre barrels at Romaneira and likes what he sees so far.
(2020) The table wines of Port producer Quinta do Noval are excellent, but until this vintage the tiny production of their white wine meant it did not reach the UK market. Now, a small shipment is with UK importer Gonzalez Byass, and is available from selected independent retailers. From vineyards at over 500 metres altitude, it's a blend of the local Viosinho and Gouveio, planted on schist soils. Very pale green in colour, there's a mineral and citrus intensity about the nose, but there's a lovely suggestion of salts and gentle summer floral notes too, combining both a sense of concentration and delicacy. In the mouth the wine has a very similar tension, it is full and sweet-fruited as it flows across the mid-palate, but then that mineral salts and citrus zest grip and brightness gives it real mouth-watering intensity. Long, very pure, this would be very good with white fish I think, though Noval suggest poultry too.
(2019) Quanta TerraAnother totally convincing and fabulous white from the Douro Valley, a blend of Viosinho and Gouveio, which I suspect has been given the full Burgundian treatment, aged in French oak and balancing creamy, ripe and enveloping lusciousness with a strictly-defined acidity. The nose has spices, tobacco and vanilla, layered beneath creamy, very ripe orchard fruit. In the mouth it is filled to overflowing with that ripe fruit: pears and apples yes, an orangey slice of fruity acidity and hints of apricot and yellow plum, but the vanilla and the slick of creamy richness adds to the weight and texture, while dazzling acidity keeps it super fresh too. A fabulous alternative to a Chassagne or Meursault perhaps?  Certainly a premium white from the Douro and worthy of consideratrion for sure.
Displaying results 0 - 3 of 3