(2017) Very smooth, but immediately involving nose, with a slightly purer, less Botrytis character than the 2008, but such wonderful purity of fruit here, as well as the complex phenolic characters from the long skin contact. Apricot and orange, marmalade-like quality of bittersweetness, delicious, the fruit almost nectarine-like, but of course wrapped in more complex earth and salt flavours, and spices too.

(2016) From magnum, and the grapes from an 80-year-old vineyard for the Riserva.  A dark colour, with some Botrytis notes and a beautiful vinous nose, a touch of coffee and meat stock. The sublime texture and limpid clarity of the wine is just stunning,  Huge length. lots of developed coffee and toast, and endless depth and length in the poised, crystal-clear finish. Price is for a magnum.