(2023) An interesting wine, fermented in stone amphora, where it ages on the kees for seven months. That adds a firmness and texture to the wine, the nose opening with a little waxy character, wet river stones and melon skins and lemon rind gripiness. That textural richness is obvious, with plenty of ozoney sea-spray, a ripe, rosey red apple fruitiness and excellent acidity. A fascinating and delicious Albarino. No retail stockists in the UK listed at time of review.
(2023) At six years old this Albariño has developed a touch of gold to the colour, and more than a touch of acacia honey to the aroma, and deeper but still super fresh yellow plum and apricot fruit. On the palate there's a slippery weight to the fruit, glossy and citrussy, more honey and almond richness and a pristine, long finish. Super stuff. Note price and stockist quoted is for the 2016 vintage at time of review.
(2022) From RÃas Baixas,the very heart of Galicia's Albariño country, and 20-year-old vines planted at altitude. The nose is reminiscent of waxy lemon rind and crunchy apple, just a little whisper of the briney, seaside character that some of these wines express. In the mouth it is quite a ripe and forward style, mouth-filling citrus and peach, with a clean finish.
(2022) From Galicia, this is mostly Godello with 15% of the Doña blanca variety, aged 10 months in stainless steel tanks.There's a succulence here, pear and ripe yellow apple, maybe just a touch of nuttiness. The palate has a lovely rounding sweetness of fruit, with sherbet-bright acidity running beneath. Quite full and quite powerfully concentrated.
(2020) Owned by Rioja's La Rioja Alta, Lagar de Cervera is one of the star names of RÃas Baixas vintage after vintage. This has a really zippy, brightly-illuminated character, stone fruits but verging into tropical territory, and the preserved lemon tang of citrus and salt. In the mouth it is loveable and easy to drink, a hint of young wine spritz and a keen line of acidity giving both sipability and excellent fish and seafood-matching potential.
(2019) From RÃas Baixas, a cool hot-spot for crisp, seafood-friendly wines on Spain's northern Atlantic coast, this has the mix of sea-breeze salinity and pretty floral and peachy fruit that is so appealing. Bone-dry, it has an invigorating, fresh-squeezed lemon juice directness, electric on the tongue, but it is not without those hints of peach juice ripeness and sweetness, a bit of broadening, yeasty character and that saline hint of thicker texture that would make it a wonderful partner for ceviche or sushi, or freshly shucked oysters perhaps. £10.80 for Daily Drinker club members who enjoy a 10% discount.
(2018) This wine is not currently retailed in the UK, but its price appears to be very similar to the straight Albariño. It is a blend of 68% Albariño with Treixadura, Caiño and Loureiro. Hinting at tropical fruit and honeysuckle on the nose, there are floral notes too, it seems ripe and sweetly vibrant. A passion fruit note continues onto the palate, before being tensioned by its lemon and lime juice acid backbone.
(2018) Much more mealy and salty, immediately seems a little more serious with those leesy notes, more green to both colour and aroma too, giving a touch of figgy richness. So fresh on the palate, beautiful firm white fruit, more structured, more dense, but that saline tang and fresh, firm lemon acidity are delightful on the finish.
(2016) Adegas Gran Vinum is a family-owned company which produces the Esencia Divina Albariño, hand-harvested then made in stainless steel with some lees ageing. Pale in colour, the nose here is saline and fresh, touched with a little lime blossom and peach, but delicate. On the palate it is a bone-dry, grapefruit pith and lemony style that is well done, but it is an Albariño crying out for some shellfish perhaps. Stockist and price for the 2015 vintage.
