(2024) A slightly firmer style in this lees-aged wine, the nose hinting at passion fruit and lime peel, a ripe peachiness beneath, fermentation with wild yeast adding a savoury note. On the palate that concentrated, zesty concentration drives this, a pithy lemon grapefruit towards the finish making it gastronomic and dry, with good, precise length.

(2024) í From the sub-zone O Rosal, this has a skin-contact suggestion of lime peel and peach skins,  again a nice suggestion of saltiness in a leaner picture than the Torre la Moreira for example. A little bit leesy, the palate is driven by lemony, zesty fruit, the spark of sherbetty, salty acid nicely balancing the finish.

(2024) A particularly pure and elegant Albariño from Salnés, the oldest sub-zone of Rías Baixas that is also its coolest and wettest. From family vineyards, there's a cool and clear line of crisp orchard fruit on the nose, quite stony and mineral. In the mouth there's a pleasing juiciness, a squirt of orange and lime, a bit of creaminess to the texture before a fine and fresh finish.

(2024) From the sub-region of Condado de Tea, this very pure and intense Rías Baixas opens with succulent pear and lemon rind, but added complexity comes from small floral and saline nuances that emerge. The palate has a much fuller texture than some, quite luxurious in effect with sweet peach juice and fat, limey flavours. That hint of salt and a touch of spice keeps the wine balanced and long. Watch my video review for more information. £15.25 when bought by the case.

(2024) From the coastal Salnés valley in Galicia, a cool area. Only Albariño is grown, all on pergola, and the wine is made in a combination of stainless steel and 500 and 600-litre French oak barrels. Wines from Salnes almost always show some saline, seaspray character and that's the situation here, against lemon rind and dry, apple core notes. In the mouth there is some breadth, some fruit brightness on the mid-palate hinting a honeyed quality, but it's that saline and light bready character that pushes through. Note price and stockist are for the previous vintage at time of review.

(2024) The distinctive blue packaging and sea-spray label sends the message that this wine comes from the Salnés Valley and some of the vineyards most exposed to the Atlantic weather in all of Galicia. It has classic Rías Baixas aromatics, with saline notes mingling with lemon and crisp green apple. On the palate there is real intensity here - moreso than in some examples - with a bite of citrus acidity anchoring the medium-bodied, cool fruit character. That ozoney, seaside nuance is never far away in a very high quality Albariño. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas. Also in independent merchants.

(2024) From vineyards in the Val do Salnés, this Albariño is cool-fermented in stainless steel. Vibrant, crunchy green apple dominates the nose, all about zip and crunch, a little suggestion of ozone freshness. In the mouth all that citrus and green apple bite and zing is there, but there's some succulence and delicately tropical fruit plus an orange-like combination of sweetness and freshness into the finish.

(2023) From 2017, there is obvious development t here, a pale yellow-gold colour and the nose waxy and lemony, with notes of waxy parcel string and nutty, buttery notes. In the mouth it is dry and saline, there is firm lemony acidity driving through the ozone character, a hessian-like dryness, apple cores and pithy citrus into a satisfying, long finish.

(2023) From Rioja producer Marques de Vargas, vines are over 35 years old and come from vineyards in the southerly Condado de Tea region close to the Portuguese border. It's a particularly tangy and vibrant rendition,lots of citrus zest to the aromas, then a palate of punchy, sherbet-bright character, the acids singing in the finish with that typical saline tang, which rings clear like a bell. Just hints of sweeter, more peachy flavours coming through from this slightly warmer sub-zone.

(2022) How interesting to taste a 2018, which had a long lees ageing, up to two years, so an unusual interpretation of Albariño. Mealy and nutty undertones but still the ozone and seaside nature of the wine comes through. Lots of citrus and zip on the palate, loads of buoyant orange and tang of grapefruit.