(2016) On a visit to Croatia a few years ago I was very impressed by a number of wines made from this Istrian version of Malvasia. Unoaked and dazzlingly fresh, this is all about cool, salt-licked mineral, citrus and taut apple freshness, medium-bodied and quite delicate, and yet there's a steeliness and a concentration about it, a sense of grip and a little spice too, making it very gastronomic.