(2016) Cool-climate wines are becoming increasingly sought-after by wine lovers, and England is well placed to capitalise. For now it is really only sparkling wines that manage to deliver world-class in any real volume, whilst table wines often struggle to marry quality and price. This top Chardonnay from Gusbourne is fermented and aged in older French oak and has an oatmeal creaminess and gently nutty character allied to citrus and green apple. On the plate it is light and focused on a straightforward lemony fruit, a little of that barrel-derived richness and texture offsetting the acidity of the finish. It is for me a touch dilute through the mid-palate, and whilst a really good wine of some finesse, my enthusiasm is just tempered by it's £22 price tag.