(2024) A wine that seems widely distributed in the island's restaurants, and one of very good quality. It is made from the Malvasia Volcanica variety, a crossing of Marmajuelo (an indigenous white grape) and Malvasía Aromatica. Fresh and peachy on the nose, there's plenty citrus and a whiff of ozone. Mostly driven by fruit, there is a little hint of the delicate flint and smoke of its volcanic origins, in a stylish and always enjoyable wine. The stockist listed will ship to the UK.

(2024) An organic certified wine from volcanic slopes, bottled under DIAM cork and a bit of a discovery for me as I hadn't come across the bodega previously. This 12.5% alcohol wine shows more of the flinty reductive style, a little touch of gunflint, but the fruit comes through very nicely, herbal and citrussy and made in a very refreshing style with crisp acidity.

(2024) 100% Listán Negro, a native variety of the Canary islands, this is picked and pressed in very cool conditions with minimum skin contact to produce a wine that is very pale in colour and only 11.5% alcohol. It is made in stainless steel. Fragrant, herbal, very ozoney and crisp, there's a touch of softening peach down, but this is a breezy and featherweight style. The palate follows a similar template, touching of stone fruits, but the whole picture mineral and light, stony, fresh and bright not just because of its acidity, but seems to be inherent in the wine.

(2024) 'Manto' is a special cuvée from Bodega La Geria, a selection of the best fruit fermented in steel with wild yeasts. This is amongst the most linear expressions of Malvasía Volcánica in my tasting, 12.5% alcohol and despite a couple of grams of residual sugar, an uncompromisingly dry style. It's all about the focused salts and lemon of the fruit and acidity. I enjoyed the bracing style of this, but felt it needed just a touch more fruit to ease the rather steely personality.

(2024) Malvasía Volcánica from selected growers, inoculated with yeasts selected from their vineyards. Some ageing on lees. This has a brightness and jasmine-like floral intensity that is very attractive. Plenty of peachy, juicy fruit aromas in a wine that is rather more fruit-forward than mineral, and yet on the palate the sweet juiciness is tempered by a lively acidity that gives it real zing.

(2024) The island's most distinctively packaged wine in its tall, conical blue glass bottle is 100% Malvasía Volcánica, from selected farms on the island. A little like the El Grifo I guess, it's a very good and well-made wine, with yellow apple fruit touching on something more tropical, and just hinting rather than fully expressing its volcanic island credentials. It slips down easily without the distinction of some.

(2024) Made from 100%, ungrafted old vine Malvasia Volcanica from the Las Palmeras vineyard, this is aged in French oak for four months resting on the lees. That certainly imparts a richness, a sheen of vanilla and almond, but the clear apricot, yellow apple and lemon fruit soon powers through. Texturally it has a little more weight too, but finally the oak seems to float away in the expected fruit and light saline character of the grape variety. It's interesting to taste barrel-aged Malvasia Volcanica, and though very good indeed, the argument for it doesn't seem compelling.