(2022) From granite soils, this Melon de Bourgogne spent a full three years on the lees in concrete vats. Super breezy and fresh, there is iodine and ozone and a crisp citrus and ripe apple fruit personality. In the mouth that bracing lick of seaside air is somehow still evident, a delightful featherlight breeziness of flavour, juicy acids and a long and delightful finish. A little star.
(2022) Fruit comes from Touraine and other regions of the Loire, punchy elderflower and a touch of passion fruit, thiols quite pronounced. The palate has ripe and tropical fruit with plenty of pithy acidity to balance.
(2022) At £10.95 this has to count as a cracking bargain, combining the punch and fruit intensity of Marlborough with the mouth-watering freshness of Sancerre. There is leafy green vibrancy and that lychee exoticism, then the streaking lime juice punch of the acidity extends the finish perfectly.
(2021) Harvest for this cuvée takes place in October, with well-ripened, fully mature grapes, so a touch of sweetness would be expected. It is vinified in oak barrels where the wine ages on fine lees for 11 months. In practice the wine is sweet only in terms of fruit ripeness, a certain weight to the texture too, but clean and bright Chenin aromatics running from apple into firm peach, a little lusciousness on the lips before very good acidity kicks through. Could work with aromatic Chinese food this one.
(2020) Calvet is one brand of a group called 'Les Grands Chais de France', whom I visited a few years ago, discovering what a true giant of the French wine industry it is, owning numerous estates and brands from across the country. I also discovered that quality is excellent overall, including this Sauvignon from Menetou-Salon, a fine appellation that adjoins Sancerre. Lemon and lightly nettley aromas lead on to firm stone fruit and some delicate white flower touches. In the mouth it is tectured and quite weighty, with plenty of citrus and slightly fatter/riper yellow plum and peach, the acidity sheer and well-balanced into a long, fresh finish.
(2019) What a lovely Sauvignon Blanc, and quite a different expression from the Loire big hitters of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Part of that is down to the 18 months this unoaked wine stayed on the lees, meaning that even with only 12.5% alcohol it has texture and creaminess as well as vivid fruit. There's a touch of honey and apricot to the otherwise pristine apple and citrus aromas and flavours, nuttiness from the lees ageing rather than anything grassy, and a rounded, balanced finish.
(2017) A Loire wine for those who don't like their Sauvignon Blanc too tropical or too green, this pale-coloured, mineral example has stony aromas, citrus and the vaguest suggestion of nettle. In the mouth the 65-year-old vines grown on limestone soils give a natural concentration and bit of grip, the fruit taut with melon rind and lemon peel flavours, that little stone and salts note there in the acidity of the finish.
(2017) OVNI = 'Objet Viticole Non Identifié', is Mourat's playful name for wines that he labels "anti-conformist," and different from what you might expect. This Chenin Blanc from organic vineyards is vinified in concrete 'eggs' and has a beautifully precise nose, aromas of gentle flowers, crunchy green apple and a touch of straw or melon rind. In the mouth it is crystal clear too. Is there just a touch of rounding old oak? There's certainly texture and a hint of creaminess, but its the dazzling freshness of the sweet fruit and crunchy acidity that drives this terrific wine. Even better, Daily Drinker club members buy for £11.25. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas.
(2016) I love the peach and nectarine downy and delicate aromatics of this wine, glistening with dew=drop freshness. On the palate a little hint of something flinty, but also of the passionfruit exoticism and indeed, a touch of nettle, pressing all the Sauvignon buttons is a beautifully clear and dry, restrained yet welcoming style. Truly lovely stuff, but unfortunately out of stock with FVD at time of review, so I have included a wine-searcher link to find other stockists.
(2015) Farming with "as organic an approach to viticulture as the climate allows," this is Loire Sauvignon Blanc from an appellation near Sancerre, where vineyards are planted on similar Kimmeridgian clay soils. The nose does have a punch of gooseberry and nettles, leafy green herbs, but also a lightly creamy lime fruit quality and just hints of the tropical. In the mouth the fruit is abundantly ripe and sweet, washing across the tongue quite luxuriously, though the steely and salty lick of the acidity balances the long finish. Very stylish.