(2023) A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (60%) from 80-year-old vines and Chardonnay. There was 24 hours skin contact for the Sauvignon, followed by 12 months ageing on the lees for the blend. A very composed, unflashy nose, not showing Sauvignon's herbaceous side too much, instead citrus and a cool apple and pear skin firmness. In something of a house style, the palate really fleshes out with sweet and ripe fruit concentration, suggesting juicy red apples and lemon zest. Again too, a little grippy phenolic edge from that skin contact. There's real concentration here, with the acid etching the finish it's a substantial wine that needs food. de Montcy suggest everything from cheese to fish to chicken.
(2023) There is more silica in the soils here in Cour-Cheverny, and this 100% Romorantin wine is unoaked but was aged on the lees. A subtle and appealing nose, lightly herbal and with melon rind and citrus peel notes. The wild yeast character gives a little yeasty, wheat beer touch. In the mouth dry and full-bodied. There's more of that lightly phenolic fruit skin character that gives some grip, some spice and a hint of tannin. Good acidity, the whole picture different and intriguing.
(2023) That lanolin character of Loire Chenin is apparent, crisp apple beneath but that pleasing wet wool nuance of authenticity. No oak, but natural yeast. The fruit is so sweet and intense; not so much sugar which sits at just 3g/l, just lovely delicate ripeness, then a sour lemon and lime acidity adds gastronomic appeal.
(2021) Farmed organically and in the processing of gaining certification. Fermentation part in barrel, part in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts, then also matured in combination of barrels and steel on the lees. Labelled as 'Sec Tendre', this is a whisker from being dry, but the light touch of residual sugar gives immense drinkability. On the nose there's a distinct gravel and smoky mineral character however, a lively expressive wine, with a touch of leafy herbs and lemon. The palate has that gentle sweetness, but shimmering acidity too, ripe, clean apple and citrus playing against that easy-going, and quite delicious balance of the finish.
(2019) Though I am a big fan of Chenin Blanc, a recent focus has also been on South Africa, a great Chenin producing country. But of course the spiritual home of Chenin Blanc is the central Loire Valley, with appellations like this one, Vouvray. Here, a 'Sec' or dry example shimmers with pristine apple fruit, a summer meadow note of hay and dry grass, and on the palate terrific focus with its sheer, salty, mineral character and acidity. There is a slippery, weighty texture, but clean and intense with all that saline, mouth-watering appeal. Watch the video for food-matching ideas and more information.
(2010) This Loire Sauvignon Blanc is very lightly handled by Alain Cailbourdin, fermented using indigenous yeasts with a cool ferment and no soaking of the grapes to capture a light, fresh style. The nose has real delicacy, with stone fruit aromas of yellow plum and peach, a suggestion downy softness but of juicy freshness as well. On the palate it has pristine, very fresh fruit, with a tangerine and lime tang and vibrancy, and a long finish where zesty lemon and a touch of minerality push through. Delightful stuff, and very carefully done.
