(2023) Note that the 2021 vintage tasted here in July 2023 has just been replaced by the 2022. I have not tasted that, but I can only imagine in this abundantly fresh style of wine youth is an advantage. The nose is all green apple and lime, streaking freshness, but there is an undertow because of the lees ageing that adds a little pillow of something more oatmeally. In the mouth it's a vibrant style that won't scare a Loire Sauvignon lover; loads of fresh-squeezed citrus and a lick of salt, into a long, textured and dry finish.
(2020) Touraine, towards the centre of the Loire Valley, tends to produce well-balanced Sauvignon Blanc from its clay, flint and limestone soils. This example is perhaps a little punchier and more herbaceous than is typical of the regional style, the elderflower and passionfruit character to the fore. In the mouth there's loads of lemony fruit and acidity, it perhaps suffers slightly from a bit of sweet 'n sour character, but the overall effect is zesty, fruity and fresh.
(2020) The 'Sur Lie' bit means the wine has been aged on its 'lees', the spent yeast cells that gather post-fermentation, to add texture and richness. Crunchy apple fruit on the nose, lemon, showing just a hint of the briney character of these seaside wines. On the palate it has surprisingly sweet fruit: wines of this appellation can often be bone-dry, being all about the salty, chalky dry minerality that is heaven-sent for shellfish and seafood, but this has upfront fruit, edging into the tropical spectrum. A hint of sweetness to the finish is swept up in good acidity, so it does finish with clarity.
(2015) It's summer (it's official) so time to crack open one of the ultimate summer wines: Muscadet. The Melon de Bourgogne vines are 50 - 70 years old for this wine, matured on its lees with regular bâtonnage for six months - and coming from a cracking Loire vintage. Sour lemon and salts, with a touch of something herby and leafy on the nose, this is typical but also complex Muscadet. The palate is riven with acidity, but there are punchy flavours here, tangy and ripe citrus, and a great thrust of that salt-licked, ozone acidity in the finish.
(2014) Not terribly distinctive, though the aroma is bright and clean, edgy, dry and mineral flavours come through. Not sure it quite pushes through with total conviction - not quite mineral sharp, not quite ripe and flavoursome. Falling somewhere between two stools?
(2014) Gooebery ad elderflower, that classic cat's pee on a gooseberry bush writ large, with plenty of ripe, zesty citrus - kumquat and grapefruit. Thrilling stuff wth delicious acidity and length. Really very nice style, vigour and punch.
(2012) Sourced from the Caves des Vins de Sancerre, this is Sauvignon Blanc in its cool, citrus and gently grassy style, with a nice hint of nettle and asparagus herbaceousness in the background. On the palate it is really very nicely done: there's a burgeoning hint of sweeter, peachier fruit, but that cool lemon and crunchy red apple freshness drives this wine into a long, lightly mineral and elegant finish.
