(2022) Matelica is a DOC in the Marche region of Italy, specifically for the Verdicchio grape variety. On the Adriatic coast east of Tuscany, vineyards are set among the Apennine mountains, ensuring cool conditions and significant diurnal temperature shift. Here, Stefano Zoli hand-crafts this wine from a 55-year-old vineyard, five months on the lees adding a yeasty, lightly bready and salty aspect to the aroma which is otherwise pristine with lemon and yellow apple fruit. There's a surprising intensity and fruit sweetness on the palate, quite a rich texture too from that lees ageing. Orange and pink grapefruit dominate the flavours, with delicate but insistent acidity. A delightful wine of considerable length. Available by the six-bottle case priced £86 in-bond. Approximate per bottle price quoted.