(2019) A little more gold creeping into the colour, smells a little more ripe and has that touch of beeswax again, fat limey notes. The palate quite weighty, hinting at nectarine, but before that can take any hold, acidity sweeps in, cutting this with salts and pithy lemon into a long finish. 9g/l of residual sugar in this essentially dry wine.

(2019) Like the 2017, fermented and marcerated on skins for six weeks. After pressing the wine is aged in old 1,000-litre Fuder barrels for a futher six months. Immediatey more aromatic compared to the 2017, orange peel and clove, juicier, perhaps a little less 'orange character' at this stage, but beautifully drinkable.

(2011) A lovely nose here, with an immaculately light touch of florality to nectarine fruit. On the palate too, a seriously juicy wine with an endless finish and rapier-like acidity. Fabulous.

(2011) Beautiful lime purity here over a little apricot note of richness. Perfectly balanced palate, the lightly grippy character giving this a racy authority despite quite lush fruit.

(2004) A similar nose here, but perhaps even more concentration and a plush, broad, quite unctuous but harmonious focus of sweet pear and fragrant, talcum-powder aromas. There's a touch of Turkish delight here too. Viscose and rich on the palate, this has a brilliance of fruit that is dazzling: zingy, pure nectarine and peach are cut with a rapier-like acidity. The excess of fruit is more than matched into the finish, in a beautifully balanced wine.

(2004) The three stars indicates this is the sweetest, richest cuvee. This is more reticent on the nose, with quite a subdued herbal and stone-fruit character. There is perhaps a little more minerality and restraint about this wine. The palate is much more full, with a glycerine richness and honeyed character, with sweet peach juice flavours and notes of mango and papaya. Lovely balance, as a shimmering acidity of minerals and lemon extends and lifts the finish. Excellent, with potential to develop.