(2020) A lovely take on a broadly Alsace-style Pinot Gris from the higher altitude vineyards of Orange, not that far from Sydney. There's a spiced pear compote character on the nose, ina full-coloured white wine, a touch of mineral saltiness too, all very appealing. In the mouth there is good texture despite the lowly 12.5% alcohol, a surge of pithy, dry and saline acidity, and the baked pear and lighter peach and lime fruitiness balances nicely, a touch of oak adds a gentle spice.

(2017) A really fresh and original take on Viognier from the high-altitude vineyards of Orange, not far from Sydney. This is a variety that can tend towards being overblown, with too much fat, ripeness and alcohol, but harvested here at just 11.5% it's like a turbo-charged Vinho Verde. A slight spritz added to that impression, but that may just be the extreme youth of this 2017 wine, as often a touch of C°2 shows through in newly bottled aromatic whites. Beyond that, lemon sherbet and a touch of juicy yellow apricot skins onto the palate that bursts with vivacious flavour, a touch of sweetness off-setting a big lemony core of acid. Rather delicious and the low alcohol making it so easy to drink - or pair with aromatic Oriental food perhaps?

(2016) More waxy and mineral than the Clonakilla, with touches of lime leaf and absolutely bone dry acidity. The palate crunchingly, searingly dry in an impressive wine that might need a little time to soften.

(2016) Tumbarumba is a small region of New South Wales in the western foothills of the Snowy Mountains, and a relatively cool area. This Chardonnay, with very modest oak influence, shows suitably cool climate aromatics with a touch of flint and not too ripe orchard fruits with hints of hazelnut and fig. On the palate it is lean and racy, a fattish core of lemon and juicy peach is offset by the creamy oak and crisply defined acidity. Not showy, but très classy. Note that at time of review M&S online will also take 25% off a case of 12 bottles, bring the price down to a very appealing £9 per bottle.

(2015) >From the Hunter Valley, home of those amazing Semillons with just 11% or 12% alcohol but flavour-packed and capable of long ageing, in many ways this is in a similar vein: only 12% abv and explosively fruity on the nose, with a spike of citrus and gooseberry, greengage and fig, there's a lot going on. In the mouth it is just abundantly fruity and lip-smackingly vibrant (much more so than the McWilliams version above) with really punchy fruit, a vital core of acidity and a long, flavour-packed finish.