(2022) The Kaaimansgat, or 'Crocodile's Lair' cuvée is a stalwart of the Bouchard-Finlayson range, barrel-fermented and aged for eight months, but with only partial malolactic and no stirring of the lees, to create a more linear style. The nose is Chablis-like, focused on cool apple and lemon, a gentle background mealiness only. In the mouth its all about oranges and lemons, with lovely zip and freshness, again just a gentle biscuity, nutty hint in the background, and a fine finish on fruit and clear acidity. A lovely wine for the price.

(2014) This cuvée was fermented in second- and third-fill, 300-litre barrels, 20% American and 80% French, using a combination of wild and commercial yeasts. It aged a further 11 months on the lees in barrel. There is more overt oak influence than on the 2010, with toast and a whisper of Jack Daniels, all nicely nutty with a rounded lime and apple fruitiness beneath. On the palate it is a big wine with over 14% alcohol, but the acidity tempers that, and there is no sense of tropical über ripeness. There is good fruit sweetness through the mid-palate, and the oak does not dominate the finish, it adds only a gentle spice and buttery toast to the clean, mineral-etched flavours. A very different wine from the unoaked 2012, and delicious.